The Dish

The Dish - 2.23.2010

51004531 — 2010-02-23T14:54:00Z

The Dish

2.23.10

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

Last Week We Ate At...

Mo's, a Place for Steaks (46 S. Pennsylvania St., 624-0720) which was packed in the hours leading up to the Pacer game against the San Antonio Spurs—thankfully, we had reserved a four-top. We had to shout our drink orders to be heard over the pianist's rendition of Lady Gaga's "Pokerface," but the place quieted down after tip-off. After a round of cosMOpolitans, we passed around the signature fried MOysters (delicious, but then, how could they not be with all the salty breading?) and exceedingly fresh-tasting smoked salmon tartare with capers and red onion. The appetizer selection looked bleak for the gluten-intolerant diner in our group, but she was mollified by a bowl of rich, smooth tomato bisque, packed with cilantro. A thick filet arrived medium-rare as promised, the Oscared cobia had a pleasant, peppery flavor under the restrained drizzle of Hollandaise, and the beef MOdallions were tender, flavorful, and artfully presented. A veal chop was a little fatty for our taste, though every last bite was devoured just the same. During coffee and dessert, a fork-war nearly broke out over the white-chocolate cheesecake, though half of the table was soon distracted by an oversize chocolate-chip cookie with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, topped tableside with warm chocolate syrup.

Here Me Roar

The Red Lion Grog House (1043 Virginia Ave., 822-4764)opened its doors a couple of weeks ago, but so far there is no grog to speak of. A delay in securing the liquor license means it will be early April before the first pint is served, but crispy Scotch eggs, bangers ‘n' mash topped with caramelized onions, and lightly battered fish ‘n' chips with hand-cut fries were reason enough to have a seat on our first visit last week.

Now Go Eat At Their Restaurants

Nominations for the coveted James Beard Awards were released last week. Making her first appearance on the list is Regina Mehallick of R Bistro, who along with Dave Tallent of Restaurant Tallent in Bloomington was nominated for best chef in the Great Lakes Division. Winners will be announced May 3rd.

"I feel a recipe is only a theme which an intelligent cook can play each time with a variation."

—Madame Benoit

Three Cocktails To Try This Week

Petite Chou: French martini, with St-Germain liqueur, vodka, and a champagne float.

Eddie Merlot's: Kiawah Island iced tea, with Firefly sweet tea vodka, Peach schnapps, Southern Comfort, and cranberry juice.

14 West: Red Velvet martini, with Stoli Razberi, Chambord, and cranberry juice.

Appetizer

It takes more than a few stools and a well stocked liquor cabinet to make a good bar. Check out our 101 Best Bars in Indy pull-out section to find out which watering holes have top-notch ambiance, liquor and beer selections, and nibbles—plus the certain special something that makes dive bars such a delight—in the March issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands February 25th.

The Guiding Bite

February 28: Renovation Celebration at Napoli Villa (758 Main St, Beech Grove, 783-4122), following its $100k makeover. Includes cocktail and appetizer hour, dinner, and live jazz. $25.

March 5: FoodCon, a showcase and exploration of the culture of art and food in Indianapolis, presented by the Harrison Center for the Arts and the Indiana Humanities Council's Food for Thought program. Art exhibitions, poetry, films, lectures, hands-on activities, and food. 6-10 p.m. Harrison Center for the Arts (1505 N. Delaware St., 396-3886) Free.

March 6: Food For Thought panel at IUPUI. Panel discussion on slow food, urban gardening, sustainable farming, ethics, and more with Neal Brown, Martha Hoover, and Regina Mehallick. Other speakers include Todd Jameson, president of Slow Food Indy, and Jason Hobson, farm manager at Trader's Point Creamery. Lunch is included. $45. Click here to register.

March 21: 7 Chefs, 7 Courses, to benefit the Gabe Jordan Trust Fund at 14 West(14 W. Maryland St, 636-1414). Includes dishes from Greg Hardesty and Abbi Merriss (Recess), Chris Eley (Goose the Market), Eli & Nicole Anderson (Big Night Productions, formerly of H2O Sushi), Neal Brown (Pizzology), and John Adams (H2O Sushi). $125 per person, includes meal, wine, tax, and tip. Tickets available at Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 924-4944).

Succotash

Scotty's Lakehouse (10158 Brooks School Rd., 577-2900) is set to open March 1st, and will include Café Patachou brunch offerings among its list of burger and brews...Buffalo Wings & Rings (111 W. Maryland St., 822-8400) opened...Charleston House Café (1776 N. Meridian St., 460-8798) opened, serving soups and sandwiches...Roll With It Bakery (5539 E. Washington St.) opened...The Stacked Pickle (12545 Old Meridian St., Carmel, 844-4448) opened...Charlie & Barney's (225 E. Ohio St., 637-5851) reopened yesterday following a fire last Wednesday in the adjacent parking garage.

The Dish - 2.9.10

51004531 — 2010-02-22T14:54:00Z

The Dish

2.9.10

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Friday We Ate At...

Meridian (5694 N. Meridian St., 466-1111), where the snow couldn't keep us from savoring chef Dan Dunville's sophisticated comfort foods. After settling in at a cozy table by the window and warming our bellies with a couple of selections from the martini list (Black Maple Hills Manhattan for him, a fresh basil gimlet for her), we took our server's recommendation of an off-the-menu appetizer of calamari—a much lighter, fresher version than usual—with cocktail sauce, remoulade, and truffle aioli. Big bowls of smoky, silky corn puree with tiny cubes of bacon came next, followed by generous entrées of fall-off-the-bone osso buco, paired with a rich, smooth Geyser Peak cabernet, and soy-glazed salmon over a bed of wasabi mashed potatoes, which featured the sweet undertones of wasabi without the sharp bite. Though we could have finished every morsel, we opted instead for boxes and saved room for desserts: three artfully arranged triangles of flourless chocolate tart and a large milkshake glass full of homemade butterscotch pudding, served with a shortbread cookie. We paused for a few moments to wrap our hands around a mug of hot coffee before venturing back in to the cold.

Downtown Looking Up

The last dish from this year's winter Devour Downtown has barely been washed and put away, and already restaurant managers are reporting big gains over last year.

"By far the best Devour Downtown we have ever had. Lots of business, and we are super-happy."

—Magen Howell, sales & marketing director, 14 West

"This is our first year in Devour Downtown, so we weren't sure what to expect. It brought in a new crowd for us."

—Keith Trump, manager, Ambrosia Centro

"Pretty much the Fridays and Saturdays are booked up. Last Saturday we had over 400 people, and we opened an hour earlier to accommodate everyone. For August, we really recommend reservations."

—Carla Williams, sales & marketing manager, The Capital Grille

"We're rockin'. We couldn't be happier. We've exceeded expectations from last year."

—Dana Matthei, traveling assistant manager, Morton's The Steakhouse

"Last weekend we tripled our numbers. Out of 500 entrees sold, 328 of them were off the Devour menu."

—Amanda Boucher, head chef, Palomino

"Definitely bringing in more business this time of year than normal. This is otherwise one of our slower times. About 75-80 percent of orders are off the Devour Downtown menu."

—Andrew Vudis, general manager, Ruth's Chris Steak House

Law & Cork-er

Local attorney and wine advocate Darryn Duchon has drafted a law that would allow Indiana diners to carry their own bottles of wine into a restaurant. The bill would also allow restaurants to set their own corkage fee—some reports estimate that wine purchased in a restaurant is marked up as much as 500 percent. To weigh in, contact your state representative.

Eat, Clink, and Be Merry

Today is the last day to take advantage of Kahn's Fine Wine & Spirits (5431 N. Keystone Ave., 251-9463) pre-Valentine's Day sale: take 25 percent off any bottle of Italian wine or any bottle of Bordeaux priced at more than $25. While you're there, pick up a 6-pack of Upland Brewing Company's just-released Komodo Dragonfly Black IPA ($10.49).

Drive Me Safely

When the merry-making has been a bit more, um, intense than you planned, call Fishers-based Sober Ride. $15 will pay for a pick-up (each mile $2) with a car and two sober drivers: one to haul the drunkards home, another to take your car home. Make an appointment if traveling to or from Verizon or Lucas Oil.

Big Easy Goin'

Let go of your New Orleans grudge in time to take part in Mardi Gras festivities. Through Feb. 16, sample turtle soup, fried catfish, and jambalaya at Ruth's Chris Steakhouse(45 S. Illinois St., 633-1313; 9445 Threel Rd., 844-1155). Mooresville's Zydeco's (11 E. Main St., Mooresville, 317-834-3900) celebrates Mardi Gras on a daily basis, but on the Feb. 11–13 and 16, look for live music, a costume contest, and specials on hurricanes. And a little bird told us that if we swing by Yats' Broad Ripple location on Fat Tuesday, the party goes on well past closing time.

Another fight was waged off the football field—of the food variety. Regina Mehallick of R Bistro went head to head on NPR's Morning Edition with New Orleans chef Donald Link about how they planned to serve hungry fans during the big game. Mehallick, whose servers donned blue ties with rhinestone horseshoes, suggested blue popcorn, breaded pork tenderloin sandwiches, and duck wings, but in true Colts-fan form, she revealed to us her plans to spend time watching the game, not in the kitchen.

The Guiding Bite

Feb. 17: Salvatore Ristorante Night at Zing (543 Indiana Ave., 636-7775). Italian standards such as veal parmesan, all served with salad and breadsticks from the same recipes used at the now-shuttered Salvatore's.

Through Feb. 11: Valentine's Day dinner for two from Goose The Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 924-4944). Includes a bottle of Fantinel Prosecco, 16-ouce, dry aged NY Strip from Fischer Farms, two 6-ounce cold water lobster tails, and a chocolate-raspberry dessert from Rene's Bakery. $68. Pick up Feb. 12 & 13.

Feb. 11: Valentine's Day pre-party: The Loft at Trader's Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 733-1700). Special guest, R&B vocalist Lonnie Lester. Menu includes grass-fed beef chili, cornbread, and TPC ice cream sundaes. $5 cover.

The clock is ticking...where will you spend Valentine's Day? Let The Dish help.

Succotash

Narita Japanese (6108 Cambridge Way, Plainfield, 838-0007) opened...The Best Chocolate in Town (880 Massachusetts Ave., 636-2800) now carries a line of sugar-free chocolates...

The Dish - Valentine's Special Edition

51004531 — 2010-02-04T14:54:00Z

The Dish
Special Edition: Valentine's Day

2.04.10

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

Flowers? Check. Hallmark card? Done. Chocolate? Of course. Dinner reser...omigoodness. The Dish
is here to help.

14 West:
Select three dishes for $48, or four for $60. Includes starters; soup or salad; entrées such as Chilean sea bass with risotto, surf and turf combo, and 16 oz. rib eye with mashed potatoes; and choice of dessert. 14 W. Maryland St., 636-1414.

Adobo Grill:
Build a three-course meal from a menu of specials, such as mussels steamed in chipotle salsa, fire-roasted poblano pepper stuffed with veal and pork picadillo with walnut-cream sauce, and Mexican chocolate cake filled with chocolate mousse and topped with raspberry-corazon tequila sauce. $28.99 per person. Available Feb. 11 through Feb. 14, 110 E. Washington St., 822-9990.

Daddy Jack's:
For $80 a couple, choose two entrees (selections include filet Oscar, sea bass royal, lobster and crab fettuccine, and seafood ravioli), plus soup or salad, bread, and a pair of sides. Includes a glass of champagne, house wine, or draft beer for each diner, plus a dessert. 9419 N Meridian St., 843-1609.

Eagle's Nest:
Four-course menu includes an appetizer (lobster bisque and oysters on the half-shell caught our eye); choice of salad; entrees such as crab-crusted seasonal fish or chicken breast with truffle mac and cheese and pinot noir reduction; and chocolate-raspberry jaconde paired with vanilla crème brulee for dessert. $95 per diner. Includes tax, gratuity, and non-alcoholic beverages. 1 S. Capitol Ave., 616-6170.

Eddie Merlot's:
In addition to this steakhouse's regular menu, enjoy specials like surf 'n' turf for two for $99.95. Meal includes an eight-ounce filet and a five-ounce lobster tail for each diner, plus either steamed broccoli or creamed spinach, and Eddie's potatoes or roasted garlic mashed potatoes. 3645 E. 96th St., 846-8303.

Euphoria:
Chef Ivy Denman offers a petite greens salad with blood orange vinaigrette, goat cheese, and granola; choice of grilled prawn and risotto or pork belly with white grits and black olive honey; either seared cod with lemon spetzel or grilled short ribs with salsify; and the chef's selection of desserts for $55 per person. 337 W. 11th St., 955-2389.

Granite City Brewery:
Dinner for two for $49.99. Includes spinach and artichoke dip; choice of ale cheddar soup, baked French onion soup, or Caesar or garden salad; choice of honey rosemary filet, salmon oscar, three-cheese ravioli, or GC walleye dinner; plus caramel apple crumble dessert. 150 W. 96th St., 218-7185.

Iozzo's Garden of Italy:
Four-course dinner for two includes crab cakes or an antipasti platter; choice of Italian wedding soup or blood orange salad; choice of two entrees including surf & turf (black angus filet and lobster ravioli), fin & fowl (pan-seared grouper and Maple Leaf farm duck breast), and surf & chirp (shrimp scampi and ½ Cornish game hen); and tiramisu or chocolate-covered strawberries. $80 per couple; $100 per couple with wine pairings. Available Feb. 11 through Feb. 14. 946 S. Meridian St., 974-1100.

Oceanaire Seafood Room:
A ramped-up menu from chef Ryan Nelson includes appetizers of Thai-style fish cakes and seared foie gras, entrees including Grandma's "all-day" pork cheeks with Yorkshire pudding and house prosciutto-wrapped monk fish, and baked Alaska with peppermint ice cream. Available Feb. 12 through 14. 30 S. Meridian St., 955-2277.

Petite Chou:
In addition to the regular menu, look for a prix fixe menu featuring some old favorites (fresh catch of the day, frisee salad, chocolate pots de crème) and new features (rack of lamb, housemade chocolate ice cream sandwiches). Price TBD. Wine pairings, either by the taste or the glass, are also available.

Trader's Point Creamery:
Start the day with a romantic brunch, featuring "Mr. and Mrs." Croques—made with TPC cheeses, Gunthorp farm organic ham, and farm-fresh eggs—plus chocolate bread pudding, and pomegranate mimosas, in addition to the regular menu. 9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 733-1700.

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse:
Choose from Ruth's four-course menu—including choice of soups and salads; an entrée such as an eight-ounce filet, salmon, or stuffed chicken breast; a side dish; and dessert of chocolate mousse cup with berries and cream—for $89 per couple. 45 S. Illinois St., 633-1313; 9445 Threel Rd., 844-1155.

Sullivan's Steakhouse:
Two people eat for $79. The three-course menu includes all the usual steakhouse suspects, such as lobster bisque, a wedge salad, eight-ounce filet, triple-cut lamb chops, broiled salmon steak, cheesecake, and bread pudding. Wine specials include Chateau St. John Chardonnay for $30, Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet for $34, or Piper Sonoma Brut for $45. 3316 E. 86th St., 580-1280.

And one great reason to stay in...

Brad Gates Catering
Brad Gates Catering will deliver a four-course meal—lobster bisque, acorn squash ravioli, braised beef short ribs, and chocolate, vanilla, and caramel profiteroles—plus preparation instructions, to your home. $30 per person. 292-4259.

"All I really need is love, but a little chocolate now and again doesn't hurt."

—Lucy Van Pelt

The Dish - 01.26.10

51004531 — 2010-01-25T14:54:00Z

The Dish

01.26.10

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Friday We Ate At...

Shula's (50 S. Capitol Ave., 231-3900), where the food satisfied, but the service left something to be desired. Despite three servers hovering nearby, we waited several minutes for water. Then we waited for drinks from the bar. Then for the cart presentation. When we asked about the special we had been told about when we made reservations (and that was mentioned in the Dish 1.12) which boasted three courses for $29.95 in honor of Coach Shula's 80th birthday, our server had never heard of the deal*. Disappointed, we ordered six entrees, and the table ordered three sides to share. The food quickly pacified the group. The crab mac 'n' cheese and lobster mashed potatoes were outstanding, the filet and steak Mary Anne—two medallions bathed in a creamy, cognac-peppercorn sauce—were fork-tender. Cowboy ribeye, KC strip, Mahi Mahi, spicy snapper—just right. But alas, by now we were out of water. And our drinks had run dry. A junior server replenished our water, but someone else would have to head to the bar. At the end of the meal, one of the servers brought a piece of cake for our birthday celebrant, along with several forks—most appreciated. But then there was more waiting. For the bill. For the bill to be collected. For the bill to be returned. We arrived around 7:30 and weren't released until nearly 10:00. Our valet, upon retrieving the car, asked us about our experience. The food was delicious, we said, but the service was terrible. He said he hears that a lot.

*It first came to us in an email press release from Shula's corporate.

Food Fight

While the New York Jets took on the Colts on Sunday, Matt Lysiak, a reporter for the New York Daily News, set out in the Circle City in search of authentic New York grub—and was hell-bent on not finding any. After pooh-poohing Giorgio's, King David Dogs, Cadillac Ranch, and Penn Station, he finally found some passable cuisine at Shapiro's. A special thanks to the Colts for saving Mr. Lysiak the trouble of searching for a chocolate egg cream in Miami next month.

At least one New Yorker found some true Indianapolis food—Darrelle Revis, New York Jets cornerback, dined at St. Elmo on Saturday. He and a few teammates were spotted leaving St. Elmo's lower level through an elevator at around 8:30 p.m.

Fattening the Goose

Your favorite meats from Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 924-4944) may be showing up on plates in more restaurants and hotels soon. Chris and Mollie Eley plan to open the Smoking Goose, a wholesale charcuterie selling cured and smoked local meats, later this spring. While not a retail operation, the spot (tentatively planned for the King Park neighborhood) will be open for tastings and tours, and will also supply the Market. Eley says they hope to market their products to restaurants, hotels, and casinos in Louisville, Bloomington, Cincinnati, and Chicago.

In other Goose news, the near northside shop will add an enoteca in June, a downstairs dining room seating about 20 which will host beer and wine tastings, and will offer a few small plate options. Eley says this will also allow them to expand their beers and wines available for retail.

And on the 7th Day,
They Bought Beer

A bill allowing microbreweries to sell beers for takeout on Sundays was approved by the Senate and will go before the House on Thursday. The bill, sponsored by Ron Alting (R-Lafayette) and Vi Simpson (D-Bloomington), would limit Sunday sales to about three cases per transaction. Wineries are already permitted to sell on Sundays.

Outside In

Winter may have closed the patio overlooking White River in Broad Ripple, but the inside of Chef J.J.'s Back Yard was hopping last Wednesday night for another Sun King Brewing dinner. Sixteen thirsty epicures—with the forethought to buy tickets before the event sold out two months ago—enjoyed a flight of six Sun King beers paired with four courses. The bitter "Amarillo the Warrior Princess" IPA mixed nicely with spicy shrimp glazed with a red currant chorizo relish. And the "Tipping Point" (candy sugar ale, 10 percent ABV), alongside a tiramisu on a bed of bacon-infused chocolate, lived up to its name. The next beer pairing dinner takes place in April; call 602-3701 for details.

Correction

In our haste to share all the culinary goodness coming out of the kitchen at Recess, we goofed on the address! The correct address is 4907 N. College Ave., not 407 N. College Ave. as was reported. Our sincere apologies to Greg Hardesty, Gabe Jordan, and the rest of the Recess team for our oversight. Fortunately, it doesn't seem to have slowed them down much, as rumor has it reservations were hard to come by this weekend.

"I have long believed that good food, good eating is all about risk. Whether we're talking about unpasteurized Stilton, raw oysters or working for organized crime 'associates,' food, for me, has always been an adventure."

—Anthony Bourdain

Appetizer

Wake up and smell the coffee, Indy. We sniffed out dozens of spots serving the best pancakes, bacon, waffles, French toast, and eggs the city has to offer, and we tell all in the February issue of Indianapolis Monthly. Check out our top picks, many of them making their first appearance in the pages of IM, when the magazine hits newsstands on January 28th.

The Guiding Bite

January 25 through February 6: Devour Downtown. $30 prixe fixe menus from more than 40 restaurants. Reserve a table here.

February 2: A Classic Party Rental Open House (1333 E. 86th St., 251-7368). 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Table displays by Annie-O's Events, wine by Vine & Table gourmet market, and food by Jacquie's Gourmet Catering. Free. Call 251-7368 to RSVP.

Through February 28: New Prix Fixe menu at The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790). Four-course meal including tomato and fennel soup with mozzarella, prosciutto, and basil sandwiches; choice of braised wagyu short ribs, lobster-and-shrimp pot pie, or beef Wellington; and either homemade cookie and ice cream or carrot cake with ice cream and evergreen cinnamon honey. $49 per person.

March 5: FoodCon, a showcase and exploration of the culture of art and food in Indianapolis, presented by the Harrison Center for the Arts and the Indiana Humanities Council's Food for Thought program. Art exhibitions, poetry, films, lectures, hands-on activities, and plenty to eat. 6-10 p.m. Harrison Center for the Arts (1505 N. Delaware St., 396-3886) Free.

Succotash

Deano's Vino (1112 Shelby St., 423-3154) in Fountain Square is now doing business as Naptown Juice Bar & Restaurant. The focus remains on wine, though the menu is being revamped. Look for a grand reopening later this spring, to coincide with the conclusion of construction on the Square ... The Red Lion Grog House plans to open February 1st ... The original location of Café Patachou (49th and Penn., 925-2923) closed its doors last week and reopened just next door. The spacious, updated corner location will have outdoor seating in the summer.

The Dish - Special Edition - 01.14.10

51004531 — 2010-01-22T14:54:00Z

The Dish—Hot & Fresh

Special Edition 01.14.10

Last Night We Ate At...

Recess (407 N. College Ave., 925-7529), Greg Hardesty's new SoBro spot, and its opening goes a long way toward easing the pain of Elements' closing. In many ways, Recess is the antithesis of Hardesty's old spot: a small, bright dining room instead of the previous, dimly lit place; spare, cinderblock walls reminiscent of a high school gym, soft gray light fixtures, and old-school fiberglass chairs rather than the sleek Asian style of the old place. And most notably, Hardesty front and center, hard at work in the open kitchen, and greeting guests in the dining room instead of being behind the scenes. Hardesty has said that this is the restaurant he always wanted to open, and it shows: He shines in this space.

The menu is a single five-course, price fixe line-up ($45), with the option of wine pairings for each of the first four courses; both are refreshed every couple of days. Last night's experience started with a shrimp and avocado tostado with jicama slaw, cilantro, and a restrained sprinkle of cayenne pepper (with J Cuvee 20 sparkling wine). The heat was cooled by the soup course—potato soup topped with artful crumbles of homemade chorizo (with Shaya Verdejo Old Vines Rueda). Next up: crisp pork belly atop ponzu-marinated vegetables (paired with our personal favorite, the Odisea Veritable Quandary white), followed by just-warmed slices of tender, medium-rare rib eye with a swipe of horseradish potato puree (with a big, smooth Chateau LaScalle Bordeaux Superieur). Dessert was a little cup of pear and port sorbet finished with hazelnut crumble. (Now is a good time to stop reading, pick up the phone and make a reservation. We'll be here when you get back. All set? Excellent.)

Hardesty stopped by the table and lamented that there were still some wrinkles to smooth out, but if there were issues, we didn't see them. Servers were flawless in their knowledge of the dishes and accompanying wine, and moved as confidently throughout the small dining room as if they had worked in the space for years. Like third-graders being summoned back to class after playtime, we can't wait for another trip to Recess.

-By Beth A. Clayton

(Heart)breaking News

Colts wide receiver Pierre Garcon is having a great year on and off the field, and he'll appear in the February issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands January 29th, as one of this year's Hot Singles. For more information on the Hot Singles party on February 11th, click here.

Sadly, Garcon has many friends and family members in Haiti, which was rocked by a massive earthquake earlier this week. Click here to support Garcon's relief efforts.

The Dish - 01.12.10

51004531 — 2010-01-22T14:54:00Z

The Dish

01.12.10

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

Last Monday We Ate At...

R Bistro (888 Massachusetts Avenue, 423-0312), which had just debuted its 2010 winter lunch menu. When chef/owner Regina Mehallick revises her menu, it's almost as if she's opened a new place. We were tempted by the cross-cultural panini with kielbasa, sauerkraut, and horseradish, but instead chose somewhat lighter options so as not to break our New Year's resolutions so quickly. A salad of fresh greens with roasted vegetables, including hearty hunks of nicely caramelized cauliflower made keeping the diet easy, and toasted walnuts and a subtle yet bright orange vinaigrette were refreshing touches after heavy holiday fare. Also surprisingly wholesome was a warm bowl of spaghetti with bacon, crunchy threads of red cabbage, more walnuts, and a nice perfume of rosemary in a creamy sauce the waiter described as "not too gloopy." It definitely was not. Thankfully, a few things on the lunch menu never change, and we patted ourselves on the back for our entrée choices and dug into a wedge of buttermilk pie with its signature golden brown and crisp crust.

Playtime!

After the usual fits and starts that accompany any restaurant opening, Greg Hardesty's new project, Recess (4907 N. College Ave., 925-7529) is set to open today at 5:30. The menu for the first two days includes pork belly with ponzu pickled cucumbers, radishes, and wakame seaweed, pan roasted eye of ribeye and oven-roasted tomatoes, and port-and-pear sorbet. The full menu experience is priced at $45.

Newcomers

Downtown drinkers may be able to toast the coming of spring at a new bar, Ball & Biscuit, set to open near the end of March in the 3 Mass building. The new spot's owner, Trevor Belden, says the low-key bar and lounge will feature low lighting and will be devoid of TVs and loud music—"this is a place to chill out and have a conversation." The Matty Bennett-designed space will boast exposed brick, a copper-finished bar, and "probably lots of candles," says Belden—along with cocktails, including some throw back classics compiled by co-owner and general manager Zach Wilks, who Belden says is an expert in pre-Prohibition cocktails.

Another eatery blowing into town this spring is the tentatively named Broad Ripple Ice Cream Shop. Owner David Gabovitch says he has a "handshake agreement" to set up shop in the former Whistle Stop Café, a converted train car just off the Monon Trail in Broad Ripple.

Dining Notes

Spotted having a late dinner at the Capital Grille (40 W Washington Street, 423-8790) on Saturday night: visiting violinist Vadim Gluzman and guest conductor Andrew Litton, seated at a four-top near the bar with Simon Crookall, president and CEO of the ISO and Martin Sher, vice president of artistic planning. The quartet seemed to be having a lively time celebrating the violinist's triumphant debut here: His performance of the devilishly difficult Tchaikovsky Violin Concerto in D was smokin', by all accounts.

Belle of the Mall

Lunchtime might be a little early for reading a menu by votive-light, but we could not resist the dark, seductive call of Bella Vita's new Circle Centre dining room. The Italian eatery—a staple of Geist—had just moved into the old Bertolini's spot, which had sat vacant since March 2008. The menu of big-plate pastas and rustic meat dishes (like veal with lemon and capers) fits this mall-side location. The servers were snap-to-it, even if ours did us the favor of forgetting to bring out the Italian bread that was supposed to come with the Pollo alla Romano. All the more room for a tender pounded chicken breast with a baked-on crust of herbs and cheese and served over al dente fettuccini alfredo. For dessert: three scoops of spumoni in a waffle cup with chocolate sauce and strawberries. There is nothing here that will make your eyes roll back with pleasure—the food is of the basic performance-kitchen variety that's hard to mess up. But it's a nice vacation from the indignities of the food court an escalator ride up.

A Decade of Deliciousness

Sushi? Been there, done that. Cupcake shops? We have gobs of them. Say what you may about the Indy-area food scene, but there isn't a single food trend from the first decade of the new millennium—announced by the Food Network this month—that hasn't made its way to our humble metropolis. Click here for the full list.

The Guiding Bite

January 18: Woodford Reserve dinner at Harry & Izzy's (153 S. Illinois, 635-9594). Four-course meal, plus bourbon tasting with master distiller Chris Morris, and an etched bottle of Woodford Reserve. $75 per person.

January 26: Old Pogue Bourbon dinner at Kelties (110 S. Union St., Westfield, 867-3525). Four course dinner and a signed bottle of Old Pogue, plus discussions on bourbon distilling and tasting. 25 percent of proceeds benefit Hamilton County Meals on Wheels. $85 per person/$160 per couple.

February 20: The Welcome Table, a music, dance, and theater production, starts in Bloomington's Buskirk-Chumley Theatre and moves outside, to finish around Dale Enoch's sculpture "‘The Bloomington Banquet". Tickets are $25 and include homemade pie and beverages.

Through March 31: Three-course dinner at Shula's Steak House to Celebrate Don Shula's 80th birthday. Includes house or Caesar salad, any entrée on the menu, and Key lime pie or cheesecake. $29.95. 50 S. Capitol Ave., 231-3900.

Succotash

Scotty's Brewhouse will open a 6th location in late February. The new spot, located in Geist and dubbed Scotty's Lakehouse will focus heavily on locally farmed produce and organic, hormone-free beef raised in Indiana. They are also in negotiations with the Patachou folk to serve a few select items from Café Patachou on Saturdays and Sundays...Bobby Joe's Beef and Brew (4425 Southport Crossings Dr.) closed...The Flying Cupcake will open up a location on Mass Ave., adjacent to Scholar's Inn Restaurant & Lounge this summer...Riviera Maya, a Mexican eatery, plans to open up in the vacated Old Towne Ale House (8657 E. 116th St.). The proprietors, who also own Real Hacienda in Anderson, say they hope to open the doors by the end of the month...Stefano's Ristorante (11680 Commercial Dr., Fishers), will close, and will be replaced by Friaco's, a Mexican chain owned by the same company that operates both locations of Pancho's Taqueria (7023 Michigan Rd., 202-9015; 9658 Allisonville Rd., 585-8427)...Vito's on Penn (20 N. Pennsylvania St.) closed...Cornerstone Coffee Company (1 N. Pennsylvania St., 632-4290) closed...Café O (111 Monument Circle) closed...Red Eye Cafe (250 S. Meridian St.) closed.

The Dish - 12.22.09

51004531 — 2010-01-04T14:54:00Z

The Dish

12.22.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

Last Sunday We Ate At...

The Oceanaire Seafood Room (30 S. Meridian St., 955-2277), where the dining room buzzed with the pleasant din of the post-Colts–game crowd. We began our meal with the oysters Rockefeller—at least we think there was some oyster underneath the thick layer of creamy spinach and warm Parmesan cheese. The main course brought salmon Oscar, dressed with lump crab meat and bright green stalks of asparagus, and rich Diver scallops drenched in an even richer white wine-butter sauce. We weren't able to finish the whole portion for dinner, but, at our waiter's suggestion, the leftovers made a delicious lunch when lightly warmed and tossed with mixed greens the following day. For dessert, a towering beehive of baked Alaska, with a thick, crumbly chocolate base, a giant mound of pumpkin ice cream, and a sticky coat of meringue, all lightly singed using sweet cinnamon liqueur.

Hunting Down Hardesty

Progress continues to be made at Greg Hardesty's new place Recess (4907 N. College Ave.) The temporary, printed sign has been replaced with a permanent awning, and he recently teased on his blog that the restaurant's opening is imminent, beginning with Recess Take Away and easing into full service after the holidays.

Rumor has it that a limited selection of Hardesty's creations will be served at The White Rabbit Cabaret (1116 E. Prospect St.,). Owner Debra Silveus is a friend of the chef's.

Deals & Steals

Dish readers have the inside track to purchase premium tickets to this year’s Zoobilation, to be held June 11, 2010. Premium tickets to the black-tie event include a seat at a reserved table and two general admission tickets to the Zoo, good through the end of 2010. Premium tickets are $300 each, and a portion of every ticket sold benefits the Zoo, as well as its conservation efforts, both locally and globally. Last year, this event featured 11 live entertainers and nearly 70 food and beverage vendors. To take advantage of this special offer, contact Carol Howard at 317-630-2188.

Bomb's Away

A stylish—and cheeky—vessel for your sake.

Oil, Spice, and Everything Nice

A recent trip to Artisano's (1101-B E. 86th St., 251-4100) revealed that the pasta chef Tony Hanslits sells at his SoBro store, Nicole-Taylor's Pasta, is also available at the artisan olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and spice shop. Grab the single-serve "nests"—just $1.25 each—and while you are there, let owner David Burcham help you create a olive oil/balsamic vinegar pairing as a holiday or hostess gift; Japanese toasted sesame seed oil and black currant balsamic vinegar was a recent hit.

"There is a remarkable breakdown of taste and intelligence at Christmastime. Mature, responsible, grown men wear neckties made of holly leaves and drink alcoholic beverages with raw egg yolks and cottage cheese in them." —P.J. O'Rourke, writer

Top This

Even mega chains aren't immune to the recent uptick in gourmet pizza joints. As it celebrates 50 years in the biz, Domino's plans to revamp its pies.

Appetizer

Dozens of eaters, hundreds of man hours, thousands or dollars, and countless calories went into a total rewrite of Indianapolis Monthly's dining list. Some restaurants are in, some are out, but all got a second look, complete with fresh write-ups containing more detail than ever before. Check it out, plus a buffalo wings showdown, and a neighborhood favorite celebrating 20 years in the business, in the January issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands now.

Pancake Mix-er

Keep this blog away from the kiddos if you ever hope to convince them not to play with their food.

That's The Spirits

Get the party (Christmas, New Year's, or otherwise) started with this Absolut Winter Mintini recipe, courtesy of Bravo! Cucino Italiana.

Add all ingredients, plus ice, to martini shaker. Shake. Strain into martini glass rimmed with crushed peppermints. Makes one serving.

Nice Ice, Baby

Yes, apparently you do need a recipe for ice.

The Guiding Bite:

December 26th: Breakfast with Santa at the Indiana State Museum (650 W. Washington St)., 8, 8:30, and 9 a.m. Food, visits from Santa and Mrs. Claus, and a ride on the Santa Claus Express. Reservations required. 232-1637.

January 6th, 2010: Girls' Night Out at Kiss Z Cook (890 E. 116th St.). 6:30 p.m. Chef Dwight Simmons, formerly of Kona Jack's, will teach students how to balance salty, sweet, and sour flavors in one meal. $40 per attendant. Call 815-0681 for reservation.

January 13th, 2010: Great Wines at Affordable Prices at Frazier's Gourmet Foods (8902 E. 96th St.) 6:30 p.m. Brad Sullivan with Carroll Company wine distributors will sample satisfying wines that won't break the bank. $20 per person. Call 849-5409 to register.

Succotash

Crown Liquors (150 N. Delaware St., 638-3720) opened...Cadillac Ranch (39 Jackson Pl., 636-0100), mechanical bull, white leather couches, and all, opened...Bella Vita (11699 Fall Creek Rd., 598-9011) is planning a second location in Circle Centre Mall, in the former location of Bertolini's...Italia Mia (3150 E. SR 32, 331-0995), a simple Italian spot in Westfield, opened...Houlihan's downtown location closed. In its place will be Buffalo Wings & Rings, a Cincinnati-based chain serving, well, wings and onion rings, as well as burgers, sandwiches, and ribs...Fionn MacCool's (8211 116th St., Fishers, 863-2011) closed.

***The Dish will take a break on January 5th. Have a safe and happy holiday, and look for the next edition on January 12th***

The Dish - 12.08.09

51004531 — 2010-01-04T14:54:00Z

The Dish

12.08.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Saturday We Ate At...

Maker's Mark Bourbon House & Lounge, (4300 N. Michigan Road, Shelbyville, 421-8261), inside the Indiana Live! Casino, about 30 minutes from downtown. The decor strikes a "We're in Shelbyville?" note, with a chic palette of chocolate browns, large white-leather chairs, and sleek backlit surfaces. Even the butter dish—a pink slab of salt—is undeniably stylish. Sensing some hesitation, our confident server steered us away from the 60-strong bourbon menu and to a $5 glass of Robert Mondavi Private Selection Pinot Grigio. We also took his suggestion for an appetizer of lightly battered calamari drizzled with cool wasabi aioli and served with sweet-chile dipping sauce. The New York strip was cooked to charred, juicy perfection—befitting a restaurant that keeps a butcher on staff—and the flaky halibut smothered in scotch vanilla sauce and served with pistachio couscous with caramel sauce proved that the restaurant can handle less straightforward fare, too. The house pastry chef wheeled her cart over before the entrees were served, so we knew to save room for the moon pie made with a bourbon marshmallow. "Good luck out there," our server said as we headed into the crowded casino, but there's no doubt that we'd already scored the best bet in the house.

Wine & Spirit

State spirit, anyway. We finally got our heads wrapped around the idea of having a signature pie (it's sugar cream; haven't you been paying attention?), and now it's time to embrace a signature...wine.

Using a nearly $20,000 grant from the Department of Agriculture, the Indiana Wine Grape Council has selected Traminette, a dry, floral white wine, as our state juice. "Oregon is known for Pinot, New York for Riesling. We want Indiana to be known for Traminette," said Jeannette Merritt, wine marketing specialist at Purdue University and marketing director with the Indiana Wine Grape Council.

Derived from the Gewurztraminer grape, Traminette was specially bred to thrive in Midwestern soil—21 Hoosier wineries already produce the varietal. The Traminette is the third most-grown wine grape in Indiana (behind Concord and Chambourcin), but Merritt says this may change as the wine grows in popularity. "We hope that newer wineries will feel comfortable producing this wine if people are more familiar with it."

Merritt recommends the Traminette to lovers of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Sauvignon Blanc, and says it pairs well with pork, poultry, seafood, and Asian dishes.

Say Cheese

Here, what Hell's Kitchen or Iron Chef might look like without the editing, scripting, music, or television host.

Home Heating System

The World Famous St. Elmo Shrimp Cocktail (now a trademarked name) is available to go. A small platter of the iconic steakhouse's spicy stuff serves 15 people and costs $122; the largest platter, serving 75 people, will set you back $450.

Picture Perfect

The folks at Workingman's Friend (234 N. Belmont Ave., 636-2067) have produced a pin-up. The same hangout that produces the signature double, which landed on our list of the best burgers in town earlier this year, appears in Aunt Millie's Bread 2010 calendar, which features Aunt Millie's customers throughout the Midwest. The free calendars are available at The Friend.

"There is no love sincerer than the love of food." —George Bernard Shaw

Chalk One Up For 'Chou

Café Patachou owner Martha Hoover got another win yesterday when the Alcohol & Tobacco Commission approved her request for a beer and wine permit for her new Neapolitan pizza joint dubbed Napolese, adjacent to her 49th and Penn Patachou location. Last month's hearing before the Board of Zoning Appeals regarding outdoor seating permits resulted in a victory for Hoover and Co. as well. Neighborhood remonstrators had voiced concerns over parking issues and outdoor seating. Patachou rep Christina Pippen says the renovations to the original Patachou should be complete by the end of January; Napolese will likely open its doors in February.

Textbook Case

The Chef's Academy has released its first cookbook, Cooking with The Chef's Academy: Perform Like A Chef With Recipes & Lessons From The Classroom to Your Kitchen. The book features recipes from Tony Hanslits, Lucas Trinosky, Pierre Giacometti, plus several other Chef's Academy professors and collaborators. Pick one up at Border's, Barnes & Noble, or on Amazon.com.

Card Sharks

Through December 24th, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Ruth's Chris northside location (9445 Threel Rd., 844-1155) offers a gift card "drive-thru." The 100th customer will receive two tickets to the Indianapolis Symphony Orchestra. Stock on up gift cards worth $500 or more at The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790), and receive 10 percent bonus in gift cards and a Michelangelo Waiters' Rosewood Corkscrew.

Sugar-High Score

A passing grade on this name-that-candy-bar quiz indicates that your memory is intact—and it's time to cut back on the sweets.

The Guiding Bite

December 7th, 8th & 9th: Champagne with Michel Pascal at the Corner Wine Bar (6331 Guilford Ave., 225-5159), 7–9 p.m. Heavy appetizers paired with courses of bubbly. $50 per person. Call for reservations.

December 12th & 19th: Christmas on the Farm at Trader's Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., 733-1700) 9 a.m.–2 p.m. Breakfast, hot chocolate, a Christmas Farmer's Market, live music, and sleigh hayrides.

December 15th: Celebrity Wine Dinner at Zing (543 Indiana Ave.. 636-7775) 7 p.m. 7-course dinner featuring wine pairings from the vineyards of celebrities such as Larry Bird, Marion Andretti, and Mike Ditka. $50 per person.

December 15th: Single Malt Scotch tour at Kahn's Fine Wines (5341 N. Keystone Ave., 251-9463). 6:30–8:30 p.m. Snacks and more than 30 Scotches. $15 in advance, $20 at the door.

December 19th: Breakfast with Santa at Kelties (110 S. Union St., Westfield, 867-3525) 8–11 a.m. $10 for children 11 and under, $15 for adults. Call for reservations.

Succotash

Stanley's New York Deli (8555 N. Ditch Rd., 254-3354) closed...Cadillac Ranch (39 Jackson Pl., 636-0100), a new Western-themed restaurant and bar in Union Station, plans to open December 11...Carla Monroe, sales and marketing manager for Indy's Morton's Steakhouse (41 E. Washington St., 229-4700) has passed the first level of the Introductory Sommelier Exam...Celebrity chefs Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert, of the Travel Channel and PBS, respectively, will speak at Clowes Hall next September as part of the 2010 Spirit & Place Festival, themed "Food For Thought."

The Dish - 11.24.09

51004531 — 2009-11-24T14:54:00Z

The Dish

11.24.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Friday We Ate At...

Broad Ripple Steakhouse (929 E. Westfield Blvd., 253-8101), which we were surprised to find nearly empty despite the hustle and bustle on the streets of Broad Ripple. We skipped the appetizers, which was for the best, as it left more room for the warm, fresh bread and whipped butter-simple and satisfying. The iceberg wedge was another humble treat, with a thick blanket of melted, lightly browned blue cheese on top of the crisp leaves. The blue-cheese topped filet was fine, but the chef's special of pork tenderloin with a bright ancho-chile sauce accompanied with a chicken tamale was by far the best and most inspired entree choice. A side dish of sauteed mushrooms didn't have much of the promised bourbon flavor, and mashed potatoes with cheddar, bacon, and parsley were smooth and creamy but without enough bacon. However, creme brulee topped with a thick sugar cap made up for any meal missteps.

Hear Ye, Hear Ye

Patachou lovers will want to cancel today's lunch plans and head to the City County Building for a board of zoning appeals hearing regarding an alcohol permit for Martha Hoover's new pizza restaurant, Napolese. Remonstrators have been circulating fliers expressing concern that the new eatery adjacent to the 49th and Penn flagship Patachou, which will also feature outdoor seating, will result in parking issues and noise concerns; supporters of the new spot responded by gathering 492 online signatures. The hearing will be held at 1 p.m. in the public assembly room.

In happier House of 'Chou news, the local chain's River Crossing location (8697 River Crossing Blvd.) has moved into the empty spot next door (recently vacated by the Pink Lime), and now features a decor more in keeping with the interiors of other Patachou locations. Check out some pics here.

Support System

It has been more than two weeks since the restaurant community in Indy was rocked by the news that Gabe Jordan, a fixture at Goose The Market, Elements, H2O Sushi, and the general manager of Greg Hardesty's latest project, Recess, was shot in the back while walking his dog the night of November 8th. Those wishing to donate to his recovery or keep updated on his progress can do so here.

Coming Up Short

Two eminent food shortages are threatening to keep a couple of favorites-and one holiday tradition-off grocery store shelves. Nestle, which sells about 90 percent of all canned pumpkin in the U.S., announced that two poor harvest seasons mean the company might not be able to keep up with normal demand. In related news, you might literally have to "leggo your Eggo." Kellogg is anticipating a waffle shortage following flooding and equipment problems at two of their bakeries.

Seeing Green

According to an 18-month study commissioned by Dole Fresh Vegetables, Indianapolis is one of 21 Top Salad Cities. What does that mean? Well, we aren't sure. Dole isn't exactly forthcoming with their method of obtaining data, or what exactly that data is, but according to a press release, our market will "receive special attention by Dole Fresh Vegetables and a personal visit by the DOLE Salad Guide."

Sweet Set of Wheels

If you are really stumped for gift ideas...

"When we eat together, when we set out to do so deliberately, life is better, no matter what your circumstances."

-Thomas Keller
chef/owner The French Laundry

Warm Hands, Warm Heart

Hot cocoa made with chocolate from local chocolatier Ghyslain? Sounds delcious. And proceeds benefit Riley Children's Hospital? We'll have two. Get your own Red Wagon Hot Chocolate at Scotty's Brewhouse (1 Virginia Ave., 571-0808; 3905 E. 96th St., 574-0101).

Appetizer

At long last, the final chapter to a restaurant story 70 years in the making. The high point on the menu at Iozzo's Garden of Italy (946 S. Meridian St,. 974-1100)? Pick up the December issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands this week, to find out. Plus, artisanal olive oils in Nora, a touch of Vietnamese flavor in Avon, and an old favorite under new management continues to please palates.

Succotash

Pizzology (13190 Hazeldell Pkwy.), Neal Brown's new Neapolitan pizza place opened...Hot Box Pizza plans to open a new location in the Harness Factory Lofts building on Georgia Street downtown...SweeTies (1081 Broad Ripple Ave., 602-3999), a dessert cafe featuring cookies, cupcakes, cakes, pies, ice cream, and various and sundry sweet treats opened...On Time Seafood (3623 Commercial Dr., 293-8888) opened...The Cupcake Camper, housed in a converted airstream trailer, served its first treat in the Hamilton Towne Center in Noblesville...Lulu's Restaurant and Cocktails (8487 Union Chapel Rd.) has converted a corner of its dining room/nightclub into a sushi bar, rolling out-no surprise here-trendy concoctions like the 911 Roll, served on fire.

Guiding Bite

November 24-25: Your Neighbor's Garden Thanksgiving Market. 9 a.m-6 p.m. Gather fresh produce, including root vegetables, greens, potatoes, and 11 varieties of apples, during YNG's special extended hours. (5224 Grandview Dr.)

December 1: Holiday Extravaganza by A Classic Party Rental (1333 E. 86th St., 251-7368). 5 p.m. Holiday floral arrangements, table displays, and menu ideas. Admission is free.

December 3: Mistletoe Mixology party at the Conrad (50 W. Washington St.). 6 p.m. Hors d'oeuvres and mixology tips and tricks from Conrad sommelier Jeff Rossier. $39 per person. Must be 21. Call 524-2574 for reservations.

December 3: Best Bite of King Park, organized by the King Park Area Development Corporation. 5:30 p.m. Five chefs will be given $125 to buy ingredients for their creation; each must pair with beer or wine from Goose the Market or tea from Teas' Me. $25 per person. Contact Janine Betsey for tickets at jbetsey@kpadc.org or 924-5055.

December 4: Wolf Park Wine Tasting at Main Street Cheese & Wine Cellar (1005 Main St., Lafayette). Food and wine pairings and a silent auction. Benefits Wolf Park. $25 per person. Call (765) 567-2265 for reservations.

December 6: Noblesville Holiday Formal at Matteo's (40 N. 9th St., Noblesville, 774-9771). 5 p.m. Three course dinner of Matteo's favorites, champagne, and live music by Tom Wright of The Wright Brothers. Benefits Noblesville Main Street. $50 per person. Call 774-9771 for reservations.

December 8: Hyatt's Christmas in the Kitchen at the Hyatt Regency. 6:30 p.m. Guests are invited into the Hyatt's main kitchen to watch the culinary team prepare dinner. Includes wine and spirits. Proceeds benefit Indiana's Make-A-Wish fund. $85 per person. Call 913-9474 to purchase tickets.

December 10: Terre Madre Day Celebration to mark the 20th anniversary of Slow Food International. 5 p.m. Local Indiana cheese, charcuterie, cultured vegetable, and beverage tasting. $10 per person, or $25 for family of three or more. Earth House Collective (237 N. East St., 636-4060).

The Dish - 11.10.09

51004531 — 2009-11-11T14:54:00Z

The Dish

11.10.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Sunday We Ate At...

Sullivan's (3316 E. 86th St., 580-1280), where a lovely brunch fueled us for an afternoon of cheering on the Colts. It's almost impossible to leave the table hungry here: Each brunch entrée at the northside steakhouse comes with an appetizer—we chose warm asparagus bisque and a mixed-green salad heavily dressed with basil dressing—plus a gratis platter of fresh fruit and sticky buns. The chocolate-cherry French toast was as sweet as you would imagine, but, predictably, the meat dishes shine. We liked the beef tenderloin eggs Benedict—two quivering orbs of poached egg, blanketed in Hollandaise sauce, atop cut-with-your-fork–tender discs of beef. We were too stuffed to take full advantage of the limitless desserts, but a second Bellini? Yes, please.

Hip To Be Square

Those who said Fountain Square wasn't living up to its promised potential may soon have to eat their words—or least give them a nibble. A couple new restaurants, a watering hole or two, and a coffee shop are currently in the works just off the Square.
•The first to come along is Calvin Fletcher's Coffee Company (615 Virginia Ave., 423-9697), which opened October 17 on Virginia Avenue in the Fletcher Place neighborhood. The not-for-profit café serves fair-trade coffee and organic teas, plus sweets from City Sweets and Classic Cakes. Each month, tips are donated to a different charity; this month's recipient is Second Helpings.
•Imbibe (1105 Shelby St.), opened Friday in the Fountain Square Theatre Building between owners Linton and Fern Calvert's other two restaurants, Smokehouse on Shelbi and the Shelbi Street Bistro. The Art Deco-themed bar offers small-plate appetizers, craft beers, specialty cocktails, and wines.
•Across the square in the Murphy Art Center, restaurateur Wally Bolinger plans to open The Red Lion, an English pub, the week of Thanksgiving. Bolinger also owns Britton Tavern in Noblesville, and says this one will offer traditional English favorites, like bangers and mash, shepherd's pie, and fish and chips, plus burgers and a couple of vegetarian options. Bolinger will also serve about a dozen craft beers (including some Sun King favorites), 20 bottled beers, and a short wine list.
•In the coming months, we can look forward the White Rabbit Cabaret (1116 E. Prospect St.), from sisters Debra and Rebecca Silveus, which will feature vaudeville-inspired dance shows and some movie and game nights, plus small-plate offerings and beer and wine. And finally, next door at 1130 East Prospect, Radio Radio owners David "Tufty" Clough and Roni Donaldson plan to open a full-service restaurant known tentatively as La Revolucion sometime next year.

For Every King a Crab Leg

St. Elmo Steak House's King Crab Dinner runs Nov. 17–20, but due to the event's immense popularity last year, Wednesday, Thursday, and Fridays nights are sold out, making Tuesday, Nov. 17, your last chance to get all-you-can-eat Alaskan King Crab legs, flown in from Dutch Harbor, for $125. Click here to see just how big these bad boys are. Call Jennifer Karaszia at 635-0636, ext. 104 for reservations.

Northern Migration

Bloomington's Upland Brewery may unlock the doors to its new growler store as soon as this week, says sales manager Danny Henrich. The storefront will offer flights of beer and a few snacks, but the main business will be growler sales. "The idea is just to get Upland beer into Indianapolis," says Henrich, who added that they do not intend to compete with area bars or the package liquor stores that sell Upland's six-packs. "It's more of a marketing tool than a sales directive," he says.

For The Dogs

Take your turkey to Claus German Sausage and Meats (1845 S. Shelby St., 632-1963) by November 18, and they'll smoke it for you in time for Thanksgiving. While you're at it, pick up something for your pooch, too: Claus will sell you beef and pork bones for Fido.

Go Colts!

But don't go hungry. Here, are three great ways to fuel up on game day.

King David Dogs (15 N. Pennsylvania St., 632-3647), home of ¼-pound all-beef hotdogs, is usually closed evenings and weekends, but opens up on Colts game days.
Iozzo's Garden of Italy (946 S. Meridian St., 974-1100) serves up an all-you-can-eat buffet on game days from 10:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m., plus a Bloody Mary bar. $14.95 per person.
Ruth's Chris (45 S. Illinois St., 633-1313) now offers brunch on Colts home-game days (when kick-off is at 1 p.m.) beginning at 10 a.m. Reservations are recommended. $19.95 per person.

Creepy Sweets

Recognize any of these from your kids' Halloween basket?

Succotash

Chateau Thomas Winery (6291 Cambridge Way, Plainfield, 839-5263) plans to open a wine bar, tasting room, and gift shop in Fishers Towne Commons the first weekend of December...Stardust Café, (450 W. Ohio St., 232-1878) in the Indiana History Center, reopened last week with a new, Victorian-streetscape look. Hoaglin-To-Go remains the caterer at the facility...Barley Island Brewery opened its new location in Broad Ripple at 701 Broad Ripple Ave...Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790) will extend its three course prix-fixe menu through November 29...Restaurant at the Canterbury (123 S. Illinois St., 634-3000) dropped lunch service...Hong Kong House (6579 E. State Road 334, Zionsville, 769-6666), serving sushi, steak, and seafood, opened...Tomo Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi (7411 N. Keystone Ave., 254-8666) opened...Harvest Fresh Market and Delicatessen (12770 Horseferry, Carmel), located in the Village of West Clay, opened.

Guiding Bite

November 10: Buffalo Trace Dinner at Zing (543 Indiana Ave., 636-7775). 7 p.m. Five-course small-plate dinner paired with bourbon. $30 per person.

November 13: "A Taste of Tuscany" to benefit Ronald McDonald House. Wine and Italian fare prepared by Chef Tony Hanslits of the Chef's Academy and Chef Michelle Matiya of the Conrad. $85 per person. Call 267-0605, ext. 205 for more details.

November 14: Cutting board-making class at the Indianapolis Art Center (820 E. 67th St., 255-2464). $67 for non-members. Click here to register.

November 15: Potluck Dinner and discussion, 5:30–7:30 p.m. "Local Food Trends: Growing Community, Economy, and Mutual Delight" (part of the Spirit & Place Festival). Neal Brown will prepare a main course following a panel discussion including Brown, Chris Eley of Goose The Market, Laura Henderson, founder of the Winter Farmers' Market, and others. Click here for more information and to RSVP.

November 21: "Taste of Home Cooking Made Easy: Festive in a Flash, sponsored by Clark Appliance" at the Indiana State Fairgrounds. Cooking demonstrations. Doors open at 1 p.m. $10. Tickets available at Clark Appliance or by clicking here.

"If junk food is the devil, then a sweet orange is as scripture." —Audrey Foris, poet

The Dish - 10.27.09

51004531 — 2009-11-11T14:54:00Z

The Dish

10.27.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Friday We Ate At...

Ambrosia Centro (15 E. Maryland St., 225-3096), the second location of the Broad Ripple-based Italian favorite which opened last week. Though the menu is essentially the same as at the original, the interior here is far more elegant and subdued, with rich, burnt orange walls bathed in candlelight and a double-sided roaring fireplace separating the main dining room from a smaller one. An appetizer special—prosciutto-wrapped shrimp—had a lovely char-grilled flavor, and the caprino, a platter of goat cheese topped with a rosemary cream sauce and served with herbed crostini was so delicious we were sneaking bites of the remaining cheese long after the crostini were gone. Our waitress skillfully helped us select a bottle of wine (we went with the 2006 Laetitia Pinot Noir) to go with entrees of veal piccata in white wine lemon sauce, and a particularly memorable beef tenderloin, smothered in black peppercorn brandy cream sauce. For dessert grab a perfect cube of cool and creamy tiramisu.

Reality Bites

Chef Neal Brown will head to Chicago on Wednesday to audition for the next season of Bravo's Top Chef. Brown said he auditioned last season and didn't make the cut, but producers called him last week to invite him to give it another shot. Brown's Pizzology is on schedule to open mid-November, "barring any crazy reality TV participation," says Brown.

Early Birds

It's been several months since the (dare we say it?) gaudy bird mural was painted on the side of Good Morning Mama's Café (1001 E. 54th St., 255-3800), and now that the doors have opened, we can report that the kitschy painting has some context. Everything in the place, from the tables to the coffee mugs, plays into the Technicolor, 1950s-style–diner theme. The menu even includes some throwback classics like fried Spam and the Pizzaburger. We chose to merely dip a toe in quirky-menu waters, and tried the Stuffed Burrito Sonoma, with fluffy scrambled eggs mixed with chorizo sausage, bacon, jalapeno peppers, onions, tomatoes, and Monterey Jack cheese, all wrapped in a flour tortilla and served with spicy salsas. Also tempting are the Hoosier Fried Biscuits rolled in sugar and cinnamon, and the Kahlua-battered French toast. We'll go back, but we don't think we'll ever be adventurous enough to try the Elvis' Favorite sandwich, made with peanut butter, bacon, and a banana (if you like) or the 1940s omelet, with fried Spam, onions, Cheez Whiz, and marinara sauce.

Hats Off

Carlos Salazar, executive chef of Tulip Noir (1224 W. 86th St., 848-5252), won the local Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Jeunes Commis Rôtisseur Competition, held this weekend. The contest is a fundraiser to raise money to send young local chefs to national competitions.

Winter Harvest

This Wednesday marks the last City Market Farmers' Market of the season (9:30 –1:30 p.m. on Market St., between Delaware and Alabama) but the first Winter Farmer's Market of the season will be held at The Chatham Center (901 N. East St.) on Saturdays from November 14 to April 24 from 9 a.m.–12:30 p.m. Click here to keep track of new vendors.

Circus Freaks

The famed Le Cirque restaurant in New York City is celebrating its 35th anniversary. Check out Le Cirque: A Table in Heaven, a documentary chronicling owner Sirio Maccioni's effort to shutter one location and open another, when it airs on HBO this month. Click here for more info.

Nothing to Wine About Here

Stop by John's Fine Wine & Spirits (25 N. Pennsylvania St., 637-5759) on Fridays for a discount on vino almost too good to pass up: buy three bottles of wine and get the fourth bottle for just a penny. Same goes for six-packs of beer. And in case you are looking for the catch, John's prices are comparable to other area liquor stores, according to our unscientific research; the Santa Margarita Pinot Grigio, for instance, is a pretty standard $24.99.

No Bib Required

What to get for the foodie who has everything? How about this vintage menu, from the Cape Cod Room of the Circle Tavern Restaurant, formerly located at 37 Monument Circle (incidentally, adjacent to the IM offices). The 1950s-era menu—which offers Lobster Thermidor for just $2.50—is listed for $125. The menu has been languishing on eBay for several months; will you be the one to snap it up?

Juiced Up

Jenxie's Café, located in the Earth House Collective (237 N. East St., 636-4060) near Mass Ave., is quickly becoming a bastion for downtown vegetarians looking for wholesome lunchtime grub. (Become a fan on Facebook and find out what's on the brief menu each day.) Next up for the humble café is Be Bliss Juice, an organic juice bar run by Audrey Barron, who completed her Raw Food Certification earlier this month, and plans to have the juice bar up and running by next week. Check out the Green Goddess, made with lemon, apple, ginger, and greens juice, or the After Glow—apple, pear, lemon, and ginger juices.

Correction

In the September 29th edition of The Dish, credit for the Indy Market Chef's Challenge was inadvertently given to The Chef's Academy, instead of Ivy Tech's Culinary Arts program. We extend our sincere apologies to chef Thom England, hospitality instructor at Ivy Tech and organizer of the Indy Chef's Challenge, and to Ivy Tech and its students as well.

Guiding Bite:

Oct. 29: The ART of Mexican Cuisine at the Indianapolis Art Center. 6 p.m. Cocktails, hors d'oeuvres, and a cooking demonstration in celebration of Day of the Dead. $50 per person, or $75 per couple. Tickets at DayoftheDeadIndy.org or 255-2464 ext 247.

Oct. 29: Wine Sampling at French Pharmacie (823 1/2 E. Westfield Blvd., 251-9182). 5–7 p.m. Wines of Bordeaux with Simon Ford, founder of Vivance. Call 251-9182 to RSVP.

Nov. 3: Wine Tasting Dinner with Michel Pascal & Carroll Co. 6:30–9 p.m. Hosted at Binkley's Kitchen and Bar (5902 N. College Ave., 722-8888), Michel Pascal, the owner of the Carroll Co., will present wines from Oregon paired with a cheese sampling reception and each of six courses. $50 per person.

Nov. 4: Martinis on Maryland. 5:30–7:30. Munch on light hors d'oeuvres and learn how to make three specialty martinis from the bartenders at 14 West (14 W. Maryland St., 636-1414) $14 per person.

Nov. 5: Wine dinner at Traders Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 733-1700). Five-course dinner accompanied by organic Spanish wines. $60 per person.

Nov. 6: Classic Single Malt Scotch Tasting. 4–6 p.m. Vintage Spirits (20821 Hague Road, Noblesville, 773-5348) will host a free tasting with Mary LaRosa featuring 5 scotches ranging in age from 10 to 16 years. Call for more information.

Nov. 12: Food Inc. film screening sponsored by Slow Food Indy. 7 p.m. At Earth House Collective (237 N. East St.). $5.

Appetizer

Craving variety? A local sandwich shop offers so many choices, it would take you more than 142,000 years to try them all if you sampled one every day. Find out where to start your sandwich journey, plus the steakhouse that's courting the ladies, in the November issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands October 29th.

Succotash

Yats, announced plans to open another Indianapolis-area location, tentatively with a more upscale theme, in the Ambassador apartment building next to the Central Library...Dyno Jack's (3742 E. 82nd St.) closed...Gusto! Pizza closed their Fountain Square location in the Murphy Arts Building. A new location in Franklin Township (7153 Southeastern Ave., 356-5113) is now open... OoBatz (1576 W. Oak St., Zionsville), a new pizza, pasta, and salad spot opened in Zionsville.

The Dish - Hot & Fresh - Special Edition: 10.16.09

51004531 — 2009-10-21T14:54:00Z

The Dish - Hot & Fresh

Special Edition: 10.16.09

Popping A Cork. Sort Of.

Tastings (50 W. Washington St., 423-2400), the wine bar located at the southwest corner of the Conrad hotel downtown, opened without fanfare on Tuesday evening. By Thursday night at 8, the place was filled to the rim—and not just because Indy winers and diners are looking for something new. The former Vitesse space has been spiffed up a little, and the location is great, but the crowds are already in place mainly because Tastings is the most exciting thing to happen to downtown dining in quite a while. It's a little like Vegas, but with wine.

The metaphor sticks: there are almost too many choices of both food and drink, and you are going to spend a lot of money without really realizing it. But it's also kind of a blast. You tell the servers a dollar amount you want added to a card, then wander among wine kiosks scattered throughout the space, each holding a dozen or so wines under rubrics like "Intriguing Whites," or, more conventionally, "Italy." Above each bottle are brief tasting notes, and a digital display of the price for a two-ounce pour. (An unscientific survey yielded a concensus that this volume is slightly less than a typical pour in a Napa tasting room.) Each punch of a button doles out two ounces; punch away until your card runs dry. All of the wines are available by the bottle as well, for a fairly reasonable retail price; if you fall in love early in your visit, order a bottle and have a seat. Or keep strolling and punching and sipping—it's up to you.

All of this would not be nearly as enjoyable if the shareable food were not so decent, right out of the gate. Stick to the most obviously wine-friendly stuff: Prosciutto wrapped figs with blue cheese and walnuts were on the small side, but delicious, especially with a Trimbach Gewurtztraminer. Shrimp ceviche, served martini-style, was a little light on the shrimp but flavorful, and a large bowl of roasted olives was a tasty steal at $6. A three-ramekin sampler of Mediterranean dips—bean mush, hummus, and bruschetta-style tomatoes—is also very reasonable at $8, but more filling than delicious. Two squirts of the Napa chardonnay from Rombauer ($5.60) and you might as well be in the Valley.

If you move to reds, (and you should), head to the flatbread pizzas, little squares sliced for sharing. The Italian Sausage pizza with tomatoes and carmelized honey/balsamic onions was a hit, as was the Napa Valley, a lovely gathering of baby spinach, artichokes, feta, pine nuts, and provolone and mozzarella with a basil pesto sauce. Servers know their way around the menu pretty well, and seem to be learning the wines. All are friendly and alert, though the early crowds had them looking a tad shell-shocked at times.

As with much wine exploration, ranging out of the familiar regions can yield the most bang for the buck. Over by the retail area, along the Washington Street side, a $7.35 pour of The Chocolate Block, a Syrah/Grenache/Cabernet (and Cinsault and Viognier) blend from South Africa was a ripe wonder—a "double-clicker," as one friend put it—but the $4.95 North by Northwest, a Cab/Merlot blend from Washington State, had us making multiple button pushes, multiple times.

Which, like playing the slots, can add up. In a glassed alcove, visible from the hotel lobby, a round kiosk of high-end choices beckons. There's a big Barolo or two, a grand cru Bordeaux that's too young too drink, Francis Ford Coppola's latest monster. Oh, and the 2005 Shafer Hillside Select, a Napa Cabernet that's on offer for 50 bucks. For two ounces. If you are seriously considering that, you should probably back away from the table and cash in your chips. You might have a problem.

—By David Zivan

The Dish - 10.12.09

51004531 — 2009-10-13T14:54:00Z

The Dish

10.12.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Friday We Ate At...

Siam Square (936 Virginia Ave., 636-6424), where we tried a new dish. We had never ordered any of the seafood here, probably because we normally get sidetracked by the Siam ginger stir-fry or masaman curry before making it to the lower right-hand portion of the menu. But this week, at the urging of owner Ed Rudisell, we branched out and sampled the chao praya—a half-dozen jumbo shrimp, crispy with breading, doused in Thai curry with kaffir lime leaves and coconut cream. The creamy sweet-and-spicy flavor was just what we were craving, giving us yet another favorite at the go-to Fountain Square Thai spot. The medium spice has just enough kick for most diners. Wash it down with one of their craft beers; we went for the Sun King Cream Ale. We also devoured the pa ram long song, with chicken breast, spinach, broccoli, and a spicier, creamier sauce than the menu description lets on. One of these days we'll branch out from the crispy-creamy crab rangoon appetizer, but the meal just wouldn't have been complete without one of our favorite standbys.

Because Kids Will Put Anything
in Their Mouths

A Purdue University student has created a gluten-free "modeling compound" (essentially Play-Doh, except without the copyright infringement) to be called Soy-Yer Dough, available in 11 different scents and colors. Sawyer Sparks recently appeared on ABC's Shark Tank, where he sold a 51-percent share to investors for $300,000. Click here to see the full episode.

Top Hops

Two local breweries brought back medals from last month's Great American Beer Festival, held in Boulder, Colorado. Brugge Brasserie received a bronze nod for both its Bad Kitty (German-style sour ale) and Diamond Kings '09 (American-style sour ale), while Barley Island Brewing Co. took top honors for its Dirty Helen, an American-style brown ale. Though not (yet) a medal winner, Sun King Brewing Company (135 N. College Ave.,) is already drawing a crowd to its (very) modest tasting room, which offers free samples of their brews on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. But the real news? On Fridays from 3 p.m.–7 p.m., $5 will get a growler (64 ounces!) fill-up.

A Walk in the Park

The White House Kitchen Garden, which First Lady Michelle Obama (with the help of local school children) broke ground on last spring, is now open for tours (but only for the aforementioned local school children). Check it out here.

All Together Now

Kahn's Fine Wine & Spirits is turning 30 and, in honor of the momentous occasion, is extending a discount to its customers. If they are willing to endure a little public humiliation, that is. Sing Happy Birthday to them during the month of October and receive an extra 5 percent off of your entire purchase.

Grub Match

Yes, Gourmet magazine closed, along with Cookie (which had very little to do with food, incidentally). But the news isn't all bad. Click here to read about the next big things in food media.

Guiding Bite

October 15: Rock Bottom (10 W. Washington St., 681-8180) tapping of the Pumpkin Ale. 6 p.m. Free appetizers and a generous sample of the new brew at the downtown location.

October 18: Capriole Farms fall open house. 1–5 p.m. Lunch, barn and garden tours, and a hay ride. $17 for adults, $10 for children. Call 812-923-9408 for reservations.

October 20: 7-course wine dinner at Zing (543 Indiana Ave., 636-7775). $40 per person. Call for reservations.

October 21: Caymus Wine dinner at Oceanaire Seafood Room (30 S. Meridian St., 955-2277). Five course menu, including Alaskan Halibut cheeks and Hawaiian Ahi tuna crudo, paired with Caymus wines such as the 2007 Mer Soleil "Silver" Chardonnay and the 2007 Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir. $85 per person. Call for reservations.

"Tomatoes and oregano make it Italian; wine and tarragon make it French. Sour cream makes it Russian; lemon and cinnamon make it Greek. Soy sauce makes it Chinese; garlic makes it good." —Alice May Brock

Succotash:

Ruth's Keystone Café (3443 E. 82nd St., 466-0770) is reportedly open again after closing earlier this spring. Ownership and a paint job are new; kitchen crew and menu is not...Cadillac Ranch, a Western-themed casual dining chain, plans to open its eighth location in the former location of El Sol Mexican restaurant in Union Station by the end of the year...Green Leaf Sandwich and Bubble Tea opened on US 36 in Avon...Dawson's 38th Street Smokehouse (3818 N. High School Rd., 829-3058), owned by the same folks who run Dawson's On Main (1464 Main St., 247-7000), opened...Fat Dan's Chicago Style Deli (815 Broad Ripple Ave.,) opened in late September. The late-night eatery is open noon–4 a.m. Thurs., Fri., and Sat....SweeTies Gourmet Treats (1081 Broad Ripple Ave.,) dessert café, complete with special event rooms and free Wi-Fi, plans to open soon...The Pit Stop BBQ and Grill, (932 E. Main St., Brownsburg) featuring steaks, seafood, pulled pork sandwiches, and a racing theme, opened last month...Old Towne Ale House (8657 E. 116th St., 841-0800) closed.

The Dish - 09.28.09

51004531 — 2009-09-30T14:54:00Z

The Dish

9.28.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton and
Maggie Richmond

On Saturday We Ate At...

Restaurant at the Canterbury (123 S. Illinois St., 634-3000), also known as Danielli, depending upon whom you ask. Either way, our dining experience didn't always live up the hotel's grand surroundings. We began with a bottle of Moon Mountain cabernet sauvignon while perusing the menu and settled on an appetizer of Maryland crab cakes, flecked with marinated red peppers. The cake was, as the menu promised, mostly sweet chunks of crabmeat, and very little filler, but the $19 price tag for a single crab cake seemed a bit steep. Things looked up during the next course with a baked goat cheese salad, featuring generous, pillowy mounds of goat cheese over mixed greens and sprinkled with almond slivers, though the lobster bisque, while sufficiently thick, would have benefited from larger pieces of lobster. For our main course, the seafood risotto was rich, creamy, and decadent, studded with large pieces of shrimp, lobster, and scallops, and the seared salmon was pleasant enough. And though we didn't have room for more than a few bites, the fluffy chocolate soufflé with Bailey's-spiked anglaise was a delicious finish. We only we hadn't been one of only three parties in the restaurant the entire evening; the lack of diners made the dining room too hushed, and there was nothing but the sound of our chewing to drown out the cheesy instrumental jazz music playing over the speakers.

Gates Has Left The Building

Big news from the north end of the Canal: Chef Brad Gates, who has been at the helm of Creation Café and Euphoria (337 W. 11th St., 955-2389), as well as Euphoria's predecessor, Tavern at the Temple for more than four years, has left the upscale restaurant to develop his new business, Brad Gates Catering & Events. Gates says that his business will focus on intimage, seated at-home dinners, as well as backyard parties and tail-gating events. You can follow his progress here. Buggs Temple owner Lynn Shepherd says that Ivy King, the restaurant's sous chef (formerly of Blackbird in Chicago) may take the reins, though no final decisions had been made.

Dinner in a Movie

The romantic comedy Amanda, written and directed by Indiana native Steve Marra and starring Randy Ryan of Public Enemies, was filmed on location here in Indianapolis. The setting of the main characters' first date? Bygone downtown eatery, Elements. The Indianapolis screening on September 22nd sold out, but you can catch it at the Louisville International Festival of Film this Friday, October 2nd at 6 p.m. in the Galt Hotel. Check back here for more viewing updates.

Speaking of Greg Hardesty...

We are finally starting to see some forward movement in his long-awaited new eatery Recess, at the corner of 49th and College, in the form of a sign in the window. Rumor has it the restaurant will open late fall. Also, Bloomington's own Upland Brewery has followed suit with a neon sign in a storefront adjacent to Recess. Is a tasting room in our future?

Feeling Neighborly

Hardesty will be in good company in this up-and-coming area of town. Neal Brown plans to open his latest endeavor, Brown & Co., which he describes as "L'Explorateur's country cousin," between roughly 52nd and 54th streets on College sometime next spring. This move will make Brown the latest in a string of chefs and restaurateurs to move in along what Brown has coined "the gourmet ghetto." His more casual restaurant, a pizza parlor called Pizzology (13190 Hazel Dell Pkwy.) is slated to open in mid-November—you can follow his progress on Twitter here.

Trouble in Paradise

Just west of this growing intersection, at 49th and Pennsylvania, development isn't going quite so swimmingly. Plans are in the works to move the original Cafe Patachou to the corner of the building, in the spot formerly occupied by Hamaker's Pharmacy. The renovation plans include outdoor seating, but Patachou spokesperson Christina Pippen says that some neighborhood remonstrators fear the additions will make the corner too rowdy, and seek to prevent the restaurant from getting the proper permit. Click here to see the full text of the letter Hoover has sent to neighborhood residents, and for information on where supporters can send letters and emails of their own.

Locals Only

Four local chefs threw their toques in the ring for the Indy Market Chefs Challenge World Series on Sept. 9 at City Market. The preliminary-round winners had $20 and 20 minutes to shop for local ingredients among the stalls of the Wednesday farmers market. Paired with sous chefs from the Chefs Academy, the contestants—Matt Krueger of Exceptional Personal Chef Services, Miguel Cardero of Mama Corolla's, Jess Rombach of Noah Grants, and John Adams of H2O Sushi—were then given an one hour to prepare (Iron Chef-style) a show plate around one secret ingredient: the tender orange flesh of the buttercup squash. Krueger knocked out a fantastic brat-and-apple dish; Romabach surprised with a completely vegan spread; and Adams got high marks for his savory squash cake. But it was Cardero's tiny, spicy meatballs (made with Indiana pork and bread crumbs from a local bakery) that squashed the competition and won over the judges.

Same Song, Different Verse

The stage at the The Music Mill (3720 E. 82nd St.) has been dark since March, but local entrepreneur Ravi Chopra (owner of 6 Lounge) is attempting an encore this month. In addition to hosting musical and comedy acts, the space will feature The Green Room at the Music Mill, an American bistro. Chef Richard Larson, formerly of Zing and Shula's Steakhouse, is in the process of creating lunch and dinner menus, as well as a late-night bar menu. A grand opening is tentatively planned for October 12th.

Sweet Lips

An early holiday gift idea for the sweet tooth on your shopping list.

We Few, We Happy Few ...

who already belong to the Indiana Bacon of the Month Club at Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 924-4944, goosethemarket.com) got an extra treat in addition to this month's 1-pound installment: a little baggie full of bacon brittle. Which is pretty much just what it sounds like—carmelized candy brittle, flecked with well-browned bacon bits. Savory, salty, sweet, magnificent. And it made us wonder what surprises might be in store for those who join the new Wine of the Month club.

Dinner is Served

Iozzo's Garden of Italy (946 S. Meridian St., 974-1100), celebrated their expanded dinner hours on September 10th with a grand opening that included a pasta bar, passed hors d'oeuvres, and a mean housemade limoncello. Executive chef Kathy Jones even managed to edge her signature seafood touch into the line-up in the form of lobster ravioli, smothered in the Iozzo house tomato cream sauce and topped with rock shrimp.

Traders Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 733-1700) is also ready to serve during the supper hour. Beginning mid-October, The Loft Restaurant will serve a themed dinner six nights a week, including tapas on Tuesdays, pizza on Wednesdays, and Mediterranean selections on Thursday. Click here for the full line-up.

Floats ‘N Foam

Gelato Da Vinci (14390 Clay Terrace Blvd., Carmel, 816-9100) is now serving beer and wine. We're looking forward to sampling the Peroni, an Italian beer, and sipping a glass of Santa Margarita Prosecco with our gelato. But the beer floats, like Blue Moon combined with orange sorbet, and Corona with lime sorbet? Not so much.

Just Another Day

October 26th is World Pasta Day. According to the International Pasta Organization, the United States ranks 7th internationally in pasta consumption, devouring nine kilograms of the starchy stuff per capita annually, yet produces 2 million tons of pasta each year, second only to Italy (which, not surprisingly, is also no. 1 in pasta consumption).

Another quasi-holiday, National Punctuation Day, came and went last Thursday, September 24th. What does this have to do with food, you ask? The holiday's creator, former newspaperman Jeff Rubin, is marking the momentous occasion with a baking contest—all submissions must be in the form of a punctuation mark. Click here for official contest rules. Rubin will accept entries through September 30th.

Seriously, we might be
mind-readers

Last month, as we put the finishing touches on our pizza package for the September issue, the city exploded with new pizza joints. And now, just as the signature cheeseburger from Capital Grille, pictured on the cover of our October issue, is about to tempt you from newsstands, Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar (8487 Union Chapel Rd., 466-0175) has added onto their menu with five new burgers, including the Fleming's Prime Burger topped with cheddar cheese and peppered bacon, a jumbo lump crab cake burger, and an Ahi tuna burger served with a soy ginger sauce. Pop in this Wednesday for a complimentary tasting, and pick up the October issue of Indianapolis Monthly on Thursday.

The Guiding Bite

October 1st: 6th Annual Apple Fest, 10:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Hot apple cobbler and ice cream on Monument Circle. Proceeds benefit Homelessness Bites, The Salvation Army's campaign to end homelessness.

October 7th: Durigutti and Tabali Wine Dinner, 6 p.m. Restaurant Tallent (208 N. Walnut St., 812-330-9801) and Big Red Liquors will team up for this dinner, featuring Chilean and Argentine wines. The dinner will include a trio of ceviche paired with Tabali Reserva Especial 2007 Chardonnay, Gunthorp Farms Pork "Milanesas" paired with Tabali Reserva Especial 2008 Pinot Noir, slow-cooked Indiana lamb accompanied by Durigutti 2007 Malbec, and "Churrasco" grilled Indiana skirt steak with house-made chorizo and sweet corn polenta and avocado chimichurri paired with Durigutti Malbec Reserva 2005. $72 per person. Call restaurant for reservations.

October 8th: Ales for Adoptable Tails, 5 p.m.–8 p.m. Agio (635 Massachusetts Ave., 488-0359) will be offering a selection of their appetizers paired with a sampling of microbrews from around the world. Presented by Harrison College School of Veterinary Technology, proceeds will benefit the Humane Society of Indianapolis. Registration is $50 per person in advance, $75 per person on the day of the event. Must be 21 or older. Click here for more information.

Through November 1st: Fall prix fixe menu at The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790). Choose from appetizers of butternut squash bisque or field greens with sliced pear, Roquefort cheese, candied walnuts, and champagne vinaigrette; entrees of Parmesan crusted filet with red wine demi-glace, prosciutto-wrapped lions paw scallops, or seared halibut with marona almonds; and warm apple crisp with cinnamon ice cream or pumpkin cheesecake with caramel sauce for dessert. $39 per diner.

Succotash

El Bodegon (8510 E. 96th St., Fishers, 440-9877), a combination Latin deli market, gourmet shop, catering service featuring South American and Spanish foods, and tapas bar with imported wines and beers, is set to open October 3rd...The Rusty Bucket Corner Tavern (1130 W. 86th St., 566-3463) opened September 8th and features a variety of pub style foods, like the deep-fried pickle appetizer and Gary's Belly Buster Burger topped with a fried egg... Plan your last ‘09 visit to the Canal Point Grill (832 E. Westfield Blvd., 253-7898), as it will be closed for the winter from November through February... ... The newest location of Panera Bread (110 W. Washington St., 822-8385) opened downtown last week and features free WiFi access, outdoor dining, and a group space for lunch meetings... Kahn's Fine Wine & Spirits (5341 N. Keystone Ave., 251-9463) plans to open a second location near 86th Street and Township Line Road. Owner Jim Arnold said it will be a "carbon" copy of the existing location. No word yet on when doors will open for business...Ruth's Chris Steak House (45 S. Illinois St., 633-1313; 9445 Threel Rd., 844-1155) is bringing back their "Wine Down Wednesdays" special, which offers 50 percent off all bottled wine purchases of $100 or less and features several wine pairings...Kilroy's Bar and Grille (201 S. Meridian St.), an offshoot of Bloomington's venerable bar known for its stuffed breadsticks and 120 different shots, plans to open its doors this month...

"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well."

– Virginia Woolf

The Dish - 08.25.09

51004531 — 2009-09-29T14:54:00Z

The Dish

8.25.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton and
Maggie Richmond

Last week we ate at...

Peterson's (7690 96th St., 598-8863), where we were pleasantly surprised to have come in on wine night, when a bottle of Line 39 sauvignon blanc was just $22—a tangy, refreshing steal on a humid summer evening. We chose the tempura crab lobster "fingers" to start off the meal—three meaty lobster legs, tempura-fried and served with a Dijon-mustard based dipping sauce. Delicious to be sure, though we were distracted by the complimentary bread, spread with rich walnut pesto and sweet, smooth butter. Though a special of bacon-wrapped shrimp was tempting, the lobster bisque prevailed, and for the best; it was the thickest crustacean-laced soup we've seen. The steamy heat made a heavy steak unappetizing, but applewood-smoked potatoes imparted a delicious, backyard cookout flavor to firm, delicate Chilean sea bass topped with steamed mushrooms. We're still kicking ourselves for not saving room for dessert, as our waitress's mere description of the olive oil cake with a touch of rosemary and fresh berries is still making our mouths water days later.

Comings and Goings...

Nutrition doesn't appear to be recession-proof. Edibles (5612 E. Washington St., 356-2611), a vegan/vegetarian/organic grocery store in Irvington will close its doors September 5th. Stop in before then for deeply discounted goods.

However, just a few blocks closer to downtown at 2828 E. 10th St., a decidedly different grocery store is set to open its doors in October. Pogues Run Grocer, Indianapolis's first not-for-profit grocery store is in the works, thanks to Indy Food Co-Op. The group's mission is to provide local, nutritious, and affordable food to the economically depressed near-Eastside. According to the group's board president, Kyle Hendrix, residents of the area—many of them without cars—don't have a full service grocery store near them, so they often resort to processed and nutrient-lacking convenience store foods. Pogues Run will instead draw from a network of farmers and food providers to stock produce, meats, and other foods. Hendrix says that though delays in opening (the target date was mid-summer) caused them to miss the prime growing season, the Co-op will source hot-house growers, and regional and national farmers to stock the store through the winter months. For more information on the Co-op's progress, plus information on membership, click here.

Pastry Ambassador

Indianapolis native Paula Haney's Chicago pie shop, Hoosier Mama, was featured in the August issue of Food & Wine. Haney launched her business nearly four years ago, selling at farmers markets and to third-party vendors before securing a storefront last spring. The IU grad said her shop's name is both an homage to Indiana's reputation for having great pies ("I had no idea that Indiana was kind of known for pie until I left!") and a wink to food industry bigwigs who were skeptical about her home state's culinary scene when she moved to the Windy City nearly 20 years ago. Haney says that apple pie is her best seller, followed by banana cream, though she turned on more than a few Chicagoans to sugar crème pie, as well. "Once you get people to try it," she says, "they love it."

Prince of Pretzels

A Taste of Philly (670 E. 42nd St., 828-6753), a new soft pretzel bakery, opened at the beginning of August. Owner Patrick Wojtalik moved here from Philadelphia four years ago, and opened the store in an effort to provide healthy snacks. His lightly salted pretzels are fat free, and are freshly baked daily. According to Wojtalik, true Philly pretzels are made in "a row of 3," which Wojtalik sells for $2, or individually for $.75. The store also sells pretzels to area schools and caters events. Tues.—Sat., 11 a.m. - 6 p.m.

Sparkle, Sparkle

The Indianapolis Art Center celebrated its 75th anniversary with ARTSPARKLE on Saturday, serving up delicious food from more than a dozen area restaurants. The usual suspects were in attendance—Ruth's Chris Steakhouse brought steak sandwiches, and The Oceanaire bellied up with oysters on the half-shell—but a surprise treat was a maple-glazed pork bite with sweet potato and chocolate mousse from catering company Great Cooks & Co., and a savory tarragon chicken crepe from Jacquie's Catering. The latter took top honors for both Best Taste and Best Décor, while Cindy Hawkins of Circle City Sweets won Best Dessert for her beignets drizzled with chickory chocolate sauce.

Smokin'

Lots of happy hours offer up ½ price appetizers, but a free cigar? Now that gets our attention. Head to Nicky Blaine's (20 N. Meridian St., 638-5588) for Tuesday's Cigar Club, where, from 6–8 p.m., featured appetizers are half-price and patrons receive a free featured cigar. (Two drink minimum).

Cheesy Does It

Petite Chou (14390 Clay Terrace Blvd., 566-0765) will host a cheese "boot camp" on September 21st featuring an expert from New York City's Murray's Cheese, who will lead a training course on different types of cheeses, cheese making, and how to pair cheese with wine and beer. The event will start at 7 p.m. and last three hours. Space is limited to 40 people and tickets are $65 per person.

For those who are ready for the advanced cheese course, Capriole Farms (10329 Newcut Rd., Greenville, 812-923-9408) is hosting a Farmstead Cheese workshop on October 9th, which will include actual cheesemaking, and observation and handling of dairy goats. These people know their stuff: Capriole Farms cheesemaker Judy Schad took a first place award in the 2009 ACS competition in Austin, Texas for their Capriole O'Banon, a marinated goat cheese named after the late Governor Frank O'Bannon.

Feeling Festive

September is lousy with food festivals. Pick your favorite or visit a different one each weekend...

14th Annual Rib America Festival September 4–7: BBQ from 10 award-winning vendors as well as live music in Military Park. Click here for more info.

36th Annual Greek Festival September 11 and 12: Hosted by the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (3500 W. 106th St., Carmel), the festival will feature Greek food and live cultural performances. IndyGreekFest.org.

14th Annual Indy Irish Festival September 18–20: Hurling, sheep-herding, live music, and Irish stuff at Military Park. IndyIrishFest.com.

Festiv-Ale: A Celebration of Beer Tasting September 26: The 10th annual Cystic Fibrosis Foundation benefit will feature beers from more than 30 microbreweries and distributors. 3–7 p.m. at Opti-Park in Broad Ripple. Tickets are $50 at the gate, $40 in advance. Click here for more info.

The Guiding Bite

September 2nd Eric Solomon Portfolio Wine Dinner: Restaurant Tallent (208 N. Walnut, Bloomington, 812-330-9801) Hors d'oeuvres a five-course meal paired with wines from distributor Eric Solomon. Highlights include a chilled seafood salad garnished with salsa verde and paired with a 2007 Albarino, and a slow-roasted ribeye with rioja-style new potatoes paired with Aalto Ribera del Duero 2006. Hors d'oeuvres begin at 6 p.m. and dinner is served at 6:30. Tickets are $80 per person and include tax and gratuity.

September 9th Indy Market Chefs' Challenge: Four area chefs get 20 minutes and 20 bucks to shop the downtown town farmers market, and then just one hour to create an entrée based around three surprise ingredients. Chef briefing begins at 10:50 a.m., and the winners will be announced at 12:45 p.m. Participating chefs are Matt Krueger of Exceptional Catering, Miguel Cardero of Mama Corolla's, Jess Rambach of Noah Grants, and John Adams of H2O Sushi.

September 12th Penrod Arts Fair: Located on the grounds of the Indianapolis Museum of Art. More than 300 artists, six stages for entertainment, plus food and beverages from Adobo Grill, Bazbeaux Pizza, Chateau Thomas Winery, King David Dogs, Oberweis Dairy, and Ruth's Chris Steak House, among others. Open 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Tickets are $15 and children 10 and younger are free. Penrod.org.

September 14th Tapas with a Twist: Patrick's Kitchen and Drinks (47 Boone Village, Zionsville, 733-8755) is hosting a Spanish wine dinner featuring six courses, complete with Spanish wine pairings. $45 per person, reservations required.

September 17th Chef's Taste Series: Fall harvest–themed wine tasting and tapas dinner at the IMA, featuring beaujolais, rieslings, gewurztraminers, and red zinfandels. Food is provided by the new museum eatery Nourish Café. Doors open at 6:30 p.m. Evening includes self-guided or docent-led tours of the European Gallery. Tickets are $35 per person, or $120 per person for the series of four events. Call 923-1331, ext. 235 for reservations.

September 20th Flavors: Featuring 20 local chefs, the American Liver Foundation will host a fundraiser in which each chef will prepare a five-course dinner tableside. The evening starts at 6 p.m. with a cocktail reception. Tickets are $250. The Westin (50 S. Capitol Ave.) For more info call 635-5074 or click here.

September 28th Woody's Library Restaurant (40 E. Main St., Carmel, 573-4444) will host a wine tasting with an "Oregon Trail" theme that will include eight small plate courses paired with wines from Oregon and Washington. The event starts at 6:30 p.m. and tickets are $50 per person.

Appetizer

Tell us yours and we'll tell you ours. Your favorite pizza, that is. We tracked down the 20 best pies we could find, and can promise that there is least one on our list that will leave you reaching for another slice. Check it out in the September issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands August 27th. Did we happen to miss your favorite? Click here, and tell us all about the pies that make your mouth water.

Succotash

The Best Chocolate in Town opened a second location on the second floor of the Chase Tower at 111 Monument Circle...Tomo Japanese Steak House & Sushi Bar (7411 N. Keystone Ave., 254-8666) opened for business offering Japanese fare, a few Thai options, and surf-and-turf combos...La Mie Emilie (15 W. Main St., Carmel, 816-1200), yet another French-inspired pattiserie, opened its doors in the Carmel Arts & Design District...Jonathan Byrd, founder of the southside cafeteria that bears his name, passed away on August 21...California Sushi (8311 Michigan Road, 872-4442), with two other locations in (where else) California, has opened for lunch and dinner. . .Chef JJ's Back Yard (1040 Broad Ripple Ave., 602-3828), a reservation-only space featuring grilling classes and available for private events, plans to open today...Eddie Merlot's (3645 E. 96th St., 846-8303) is offering a new menu including a tempura shrimp maki roll appetizer and entrees like the Winemaker's steak and cedar-plank salmon...Union Jack Pub (924 Broad Ripple Ave., 257-4343) is celebrating 30 years in September...Sean MacBride, formerly executive chef of the now-shuttered Café Nora is taking over as director of The Loft Restaurant operations and executive chef of Trader's Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 733-1700)...Bloomington's Upland Brewing Co. (350 W. 11th St., Bloomington,
812-336-2337) is looking to add a beer-tasting bar at 49th Street and College Avenue. The brewery has a hearing for its liquor license on September 21st...

The Dish 07.28.2009

51004531 — 2009-07-31T14:54:00Z

The Dish

07.28.2009

Edited by Beth A. Clayton and
Maggie Richmond

On Saturday We Ate At...

Restaurant Tallent, (208 N. Walnut St., 812-330-9801). The evening began with a pre-dinner drink at Grazie (106 W. 6th St., Bloomington, 812-323-0303), where the Pink Flirtini—Stoli Razberi, Cointreau, pineapple, cranberry, and lime juice topped with a champagne float—was as fun and frilly as the name implies. But around the corner at Tallent, we got down to business, sampling James Beard-nominated chef Dave Tallent's summer choices. Among the first course offerings, fried green tomatoes layered with chilled Maine lobster salad and lemon and tarragon aioli were so flavorful we were tempted to order another round, but instead moved on to wild King salmon, flavored with zingy horseradish mustard and served alongside a garnish of pickled cucumbers, beets, and new potatoes. We were intrigued by the smoked chicken waffle—made with Schacht Farms chicken from Bloomington—and bacon-braised kale, but instead went with the Fiedler Farms pork, served with a barbeque-like marinade, a cake of chorizo polenta, and cooling lime and basil corn relish. A dessert of Dark and Stormy cake—rum cake with ginger and lime sorbet—was delicious and different, but a fight nearly broke out at our table over who would get the last bite of blueberry cornmeal cake with smooth and luscious sweet corn ice cream.

Good Taste

Tastings – A Wine Experience, a new wine bar and bistro set to open Oct. 1, will take the place of the Vitesse Lounge in the first-floor corner space of the Conrad Indianapolis. A franchise owned by locals Lisa and Jack Bailey, it's based in St. Petersburg, Florida (this is the fifth location for the chain), and will offer a rotating selection of more than 100 wines by the glass, most available for tasting. Tastings makes use of an Enomatic wine-tasting system, which seals bottles with oxygen to preserve the remainder of the bottle. Patrons can purchase a taste, a glass, or a half-glass and enjoy their wine in the bistro, or take a bottle to go—all bottles are sold at retail price. "There really aren't any other wine bars like this," says Lisa Bailey—which if not true of the rest of the world is certainly true of Indianapolis. The bistro—and its outdoor seating on both Washington and Illinois Streets—will be a welcome downtown addition.

Meanwhile, across the lobby at The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790), an on-going wine-tasting event has us asking for just one more pour. For $10 at lunch or $25 at dinner, you get 15 ounces of wine, which can be divided among any of a dozen Spanish and Argentine wines. We started with a crisp, dry 2005 Marques de Gelinda Brut Exclusive Reserva Cava from the Penedes region of Spain, which paired well with flown-in-fresh Bluepoint oysters. A soft, bright red from Jumilla, Spain—2006 Juan Gil Monastrell—is a summery accompaniment to the filet Oscar with sweet lump crab meat and fresh asparagus. Finish the meal with the flourless chocolate espresso cake paired with the 2006 Alma Negra, a bonarda/Malbec blend from Argentina, which boosts a smooth, robust cherry-tinged flavor and a bold cinnamon finish. The offerings change to the wines of Napa Valley and South Africa starting August 3rd.

We're Psychic

Just as we are putting the final touches on our pizza package for the September issue of Indianapolis Monthly, the pies are popping up everywhere. Martha Hoover, of the Patachou empire, is set to open Napolese, serving artisanal pizzas in a recently vacated spot adjacent to her 49th and Penn location, Neal Brown hints that his new restaurant will be a gourmet pizza parlor dubbed Pizzology, and the Kentucky-based chain Boombozz Famous Pizza has eight Circle City locations in the works (the first one expected to late 2009). And last but not least, Fountain Square pizza joint Gusto! (1043 Virginia Ave., 631-5113) is set to open a second location on Southeastern Avenue near Wanamaker sometime in mid-August.

The Life and Times of Karl Benko

Iozzo's, chef Karl Benko's latest consultancy project, is set to begin serving lunch on August 3rd, with Kathy Jones, formerly of Zest! Exciting Food Creations heading up the kitchen. The soft opening has been pushed back several times due to construction issues. "We're recouping a building that is 130 years old," says Benko. "We didn't build in enough buffer time." But he has plenty of projects awaiting his attention when the new Italian eatery is up and running. First up is lending a hand on a Divine Wine dinner at the famed James Beard house on August 11, where he will assist Chef Thomas Dritsas and wine director David O'Day, both of Del Frisco restaurant group. Then, slated for opening in late fall, an all-American sports pub at the intersection of Meridian Street and Hannah Avenue, featuring collegiate-inspired décor and classic pub grub. "The kind of stuff everyone wants to enjoy while watching their favorite sports team," says Benko.

Up in the Aire?

The parent company of the Oceanaire Seafood Room (30 S. Meridian St., 955-2277) filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection, and four of the chain's 16 locations—Charlotte, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, and Seattle—have closed their doors. The Indianapolis location however, is currently in the clear, and beefing up dining deals. Piggy-backing off their successful $20.10 promotion—selected bottles of red and white wine each week for $20.10—the seafood seller has put together a three-course menu for, you guessed it, $20.10. The special menu is available Sunday through Thursday, from 5 p.m.–7 p.m.

The memory is Fuzzy...

...but Ruth's Chris Steakhouse (9445 Threel Rd., 844-1155; 45 S. Illinois St., 633-1313) hosted a vodka-tasting dinner last friday to introduce golfer Fuzzy Zoeller's new ultra premium vodka. The smooth vodka boasts a soft, vanilla finish that tasted equally good in the Apple-tini guests sipped while mingling as it did in the chocolate martinis that paired with the flourless chocolate cake at dessert.

A Burger for the Books

Burger Chef got its start in 1958 in Indianapolis selling 15-cent hamburgers. Now comes Burger Chef, a lively book tracing the chain's advertising and history before its 1982 demise. The book is $21.99 (146 of the 15-cent burgers, if you are counting) and is available through Arcadia Publishing.

Hurry, Hurry, Hurry

Cancel tomorrow's lunch plans and head to Buca Di Beppo (35 N. Illinois St., 632-2822; 6045 E. 86th St., 842-8666) for National Lasagna Day (July 29th). They're giving away a free serving of lasagna with the purchase of pasta or entrees.

Appetizer

If you haven't been to a Japanese steakhouse since Benihana's heyday 20 years ago, its time to belly up to the hibachi grill. In the August issue of Indianapolis Monthly, we bring you a roundup of three new ones in the Indy area. Plus, heavenly treats at Nancy Noel's Sanctuary, and gluten-free goodies at your fingertips in the pages of the new IM, on newsstands July 30th.

The Guiding Bite

August 1st: Flavor of Fishers – noon–10 p.m. The "Simmering the Senses" event will take place at the USA Parkway Circle in Fishers and will include specialties from local restaurants, a beer and wine garden, and performances by Hotel California – An Eagles Tribute Band, Left of Broadmore, and Silly Safari, among others. Tickets are $5 in advance and $7 at the door, food and beverage tickets are sold separately. For more information, call 578-0700 or visit www.FlavorofFishers.com.

August 5th: Silver Oak & Twomey Cellars Wine Dinner–6:30 p.m. St. Elmo Steakhouse will host a multi-course dinner, sampling the wines of Silver Oak and Twomey. The menu, prepared by chef Dave Foegley, will feature a 12-ounce, dry-aged New York strip with peppercorn demi-glace to be paired with Silver Oak Alexander and Napa Valley cabernets, cherry wood-smoked Alaska Sockeye salmon paired with Twomey Pinot Noir. Cost is $135 per person. RSVP to Jennifer Karazsia at 635-0636 ext. 104.

August 6th: Tapping of the Happy Pils – 6 p.m. Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery (10 West Washington, 681-8180) will offer a taste of their newest beer, a pilsner, and serve free appetizers. The event is free and open to those 21 and over.

August 10th: The Longest Dinner – 6 p.m. As part of the 5th Indianapolis Theatre Fringe Festival, the evening will include a three-course dinner prepared slow-food style, as well as Fringe Street Theatre and live music. Tickets are $50 and can be bought by calling 522-8099 or at www.indyfringe.org. IndyFringe Building (719 E. St. Clair St.).

August 10th: 23rd – Devour Downtown. This bi-annual event gives diners a chance to sample restaurants' $30 menus, designed especially for the two-week affair. Participating restaurants include 14 West, The Capital Grille, Morton's, Adobo Grill, Ruth's Chris Steak House, Palomino, and Euphoria, among others. For more information, visit www.devourdowntown.com.

Saturdays, beginning July 25th: The Magic Theater—Carnegie's Restaurant (100 West North St., Greenfield, 462-8480. Cocktails and appetizers at 5:30, interactive comedy and table-side magic performance thereafter. $47.99 per person.

Sundays: Sangria Brunch Buffet — 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Barcelona Tapas (201 N. Delaware) serves brunch featuring made-to-order omelet buffet, Spanish eggs Benedict with grilled chorizo, and carved top round of beef slow roasted and sliced to order. $16.95 per person; includes sangria.

Succotash

The Abbey Coffee House (825 N. Pennsylvania St.) has closed its doors after the owner took a job as a personal chef in Texas . . . RW's Bar-B-Que (3705 N. Illinois St., 924-7427) opened in May and showcases the owners' "good-to-the-bone" barbecue, sides, and desserts . . . Good Morning Mama's Café, the new breakfast and lunch off-shoot of Mama Carolla's, is slated to open the first week of August . . . Noodles & Company plans to open a new locatation at 3450 W. 86th St. on August 25th. . . Keltie's (110 S. Union St., Westfield, 867-3525) opened outdoor patio seating for twenty in July . . . Nourish Café, the new IMA restaurant, is set to open sometime in August . . . H2O Sushi (1912 Broad Ripple Ave., 254-0677) welcomes new owner Chris Choi; the twenty-six year old is originally from South Korea and plans to keep the menu the same for now . . . Barley Island Brewery (639 Conner St., Noblesville, 770-5280) will open a second location this fall in the former Scholar's Inn Bakehouse spot at the corner of College and Broad Ripple Avenues...A second location of Ambrosia (915 Westfield Blvd., 255-3096), to be called Ambrosia Central, is slated to open this fall in the first floor of the Hampton Inn on Maryland Street...Café Nora and Ruth's Keystone Café, both owned by Jim Nethercott, closed...Panera Bread is planning a downtown location in Claypool Court. Outdoor and atrium seating is planned, pending approval...Bonjour Bakery & Café closed...

"I believe that if I ever had to practice cannibalism, I might manage were there enough tarragon around."

-Chef James Beard

The Dish 06.23.2009

51004531 — 2009-07-31T14:54:00Z

The Dish

06.23.2009

Edited by Beth A. Clayton and Maggie Richmond

On Friday We Ate At...

Zing, (543 Indiana Ave., 636-7775) where the view from the patio on a summer night is unbeatable. We arrived around 6:30 p.m. with no reservation and were seated promptly. A table with an umbrella would have been nice, but they were all reserved. Beggars can't be choosers, right? Our server was quick to the table and aptly rattled off the night's drink specials, which included $3 margaritas. The limey margaritas, served on the rocks with plenty of salt, proved to be the ideal way to start off a meal of mahi-mahi fish tacos and a tamale. The small plates are generous, with three crunchy fish tacos cooled by the housemade avocado cream, and the pineapple tamale was packed with fat sauteed shrimp and sat in a spicy chipotle alfredo sauce. We continued our supper with calamari (and another round of margaritas), and while it was lightly breaded and perfectly tasty, we wished we had ordered a second tamale. Next time we will go back on a Saturday night for some live music starting at 9 p.m.

Hot, Hot, Hot

Firehouse Subs is invading the Circle City, with plans to open up to 28 locations; the first one should start serving up its subs by the end of the summer. The Jacksonville, Fla.-based chain, known for their toasted subs with oversized portions of meats and cheeses, plays off the founding family's long history of fire-fighting, and celebrates local firefighters as well. Don Fox, COO of Firehouse of America, said in a press release that Indianapolis's "Midwest appreciation for fresh foods and large portions" made Naptown an ideal location for expansion. Um, thanks?

In A Pickle

The Spicy Pickle closed its Indianapolis locations, but the Denver chain can't leave Indy behind just yet. Simon Property Group has sued the company for nearly $1 million in unpaid rent at the Castleton Square Mall location. Click here for more details from the IBJ.

All In The Famiglia

Karl Benko, formerly of Peterson's (7690 E. 96th St., 598-8863), has popped up on the dining scene once again, this time lending a hand with the opening of Iozzo's, a new family-owned eatery serving classic Italian on South Meridian Street. Chef Steve Graham will head up the kitchen. The eatery is expected to serve its first diners mid-July.

Something's Fishy

For the past three years, Zest! Exciting Food Creations (1134 E. 54th St., 466-1853) has won over SoBro diners with its creative brunch and lunch dishes (the crème brulee French toast even won a Blue Ribbon at this year's Zoobilation), and the dinners seem to be gaining a following as well. The eatery began serving the evening meal with a more sophisticated ambiance (think candlelight at jazz) in April. Kathy Jones, formerly of Decadent by Design, and most recently, the now-shuttered Bistro de Paris, joined the restaurant last August, and has helped chef Valerie Vanderpool create dinner dishes with a focus on seafood (Jones' specialty) like crab cakes, crab Benny, and lobster pie.

Congrats!

Kristin A. Okeley, of Kitchens by Design (1530 E. 86th St., 815-8880) placed 3rd out of thousands of entries in the category for Large Kitchens during the 2009 National Kitchen and Bath Association Design Competition.

Vegan For More

Sweet Lucinda's Courtney Gorman now offers a vegan version of her sinful cupcakes. We sampled a peanut butter-chocolate option with a delicious core of peanut butter hidden in the middle, and a chocolate-chocolate version. Both tasted exactly like the real dairy-laden deal. She also offers a chocolate cupcake with vanilla frosting. "These are the only versions I am completely happy with," says Gorman. "I am working on some more, but vanilla is a bear to work out without dairy!"

What About Us?

The June issue of Midwest Living ranked Bloomington as one of the best food towns in the region, citing Restaurant Tallent, Farm Bloomington, Laughing Planet, Scholar's Inn, and Uptown Café as the top dining destinations for culinary tourists. Our fair city was absent from the list. Sigh. Maybe next time. Click here for the full article.

Open for Business?

The wait may finally be over for Nicole Taylor's Pasta & Market (1134 E. 54th St.), the readymade pasta shop owned by chef Tony Hanslits that was first rumored to open in April. Latest reports say the store will open in early July.

Baking Blog

For baking inspiration, check out The Hot Cookie, the product of Sarah and Karli, two women living in Indianapolis who bake artisan cookies and blog about their latest experiments. Recent posts include the Jagerdoodle, a curious combo of Jagermeister and snickerdoodle cookies, and tips on cookie conundrums, like getting the consistency of vegan thumbprints just right.

Pie in the Sky

IM staffers are up to their anchovies in pizza! We are searching far and wide, eating our way from Noblesville's Dom Di Carlo in the north, all the way to Brozinni in Greenwood, in search of the very best this city has to offer. It's a rough job, but hey, someone has to do it. Help us cut to the chase by clicking here and telling us your favorite pizza in the area.

The Guiding Bite:

June 27–The Phoenix Theatre's microbrew festival, Brew-Ha-Ha, featuring live music from three local bands, food from Dick's Bodacious BBQ and King David Dogs, and, of course, more than 50 of the region's best microbrews and craft beers. Tickets are $25, $10 for designated drivers. Click here to purchase tickets in advance.

July 4–Spend Independence Day at the 11th Street Basin on the Canal, where Buggs Temple will host a 4th of July bash that includes two bands, a cash bar, and a variety of grilled items. Tickets are $5 per person, or snag a table for 8 in the VIP area for $250, and take part in a lobster bake.

July 13-August 23–The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790) will offer a Master Wine Tasting Event featuring wines chosen by the chain's sommelier, George Miliotes. Diners can sample up to 12 wines with their meals. The first session (July 13–August 2) will feature wines from the Catena family with vineyards in Argentina, and Spain's La Rioja region. The second session (August 3–23) will include Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet and South African selections. Cost is $10 at lunch and $25 at dinner.

July 15–Sun King Brewery will introduce some of their new beers at a pairing event with JJ Boston of Spencer's Tavern (802 S. West St., 916-8888) and Chris Eley of Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 924-4944). The five-course meal will feature commentary from Eley, Boston, and Clay Robinson, owner of Sun King Brewery. Cost is $39 per person. Call 916-8888 or click here for reservations.

July 18 & 19–The Indy Wine Trail Barbecue Event features a different BBQ and glass of wine at each of the seven Trail wineries. Tickets are $22 in advance, $27 during the event. Click here for more details.

July 22–Oakleys Bistro (1464 W. 86th. St, 824-
1231) will host Dan Killey of Grateful Palate Imports, who will be on hand to discuss the wines paired with chef Stephan Oakley's special menu. Dinner begins at 6:30 p.m. and tickets are $65 each. Call 824-1231 for reservations.

Appetizer

The dining room in the northside's Stanley's New York Deli (8555 Ditch Rd.,254-3354) was packed when it opened its doors in April, but how does it stack up to stalwart Shapiro's (808 S. Meridian St., 631-4041)? Find out who is serving up the real deal, plus the scoop on Indy's new Moroccan joint, and the contents of Locally Grown Garden's (1050 E. 54th St., 255-8555) owner Ron Harris's fridge in the July issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands June 25th.

Succotash

Naked Tchopstix has opened another location at Hoosier Park, making it the fourth location for the popular sushi spot...Mug ‘n Bug (5211 W. 10th St., Speedway, 247-9186) has added a climate controlled dine-in area that should be available for use later this summer... Jackamo Pizza (5646 E. Washington St., 356-6612) in Irvington and Naked Tchopstix (6255 N. College Ave., 252-5555) in Broad Ripple have both opened new outdoor patios...Mudsocks Grill plans to roll out a new menu on July 1st. Owners were mum about additions pending menu approval...Za (801 Broad Ripple Ave.), a gourmet pizza parlor catering to the late-night crowd, opened its doors...Ghyslain at the Sanctuary (75 N. Main St., Zionsville, 773-9160), the new café at Nancy Noel's art gallery opened its doors, serving salads, sandwiches, and the dessert creations of chef Ghyslain Maurais...Lelands (2550 E. 146th St., Carmel, 566-8700) is open for business...G. Simone's (120 S. Main St., Zionsville), operated by the owners of Plum's Upper Room and serving much of the same food, opened its doors. The casual café serves coffee and light lunches of soups, sandwiches, and salads.

The Dish 5.25.09

51004531 — 2009-07-31T14:54:00Z

The Dish

5.25.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

Last Week We Ate At...

Taste Café and Marketplace (5164 N. College Ave., 925-2233). Owing to the beautiful weather, all of the patio tables had been reserved, so we reluctantly settled for a booth inside. The menu assuaged our disappointment. We began with an appetizer of fresh avocado puree and crispy plantain chips sprinkled lightly with sugar, and sipped iced tea garnished generously with mint leaves, water spiked with cucumber slices (and poured from a reused Traders Point Creamery milk bottle) and a quartino of chardonnay. Main courses included a juicy pork loin with sweet and tangy apple and horseradish slaw, and miso-glazed Chilean sea bass. The sweet and fragrant glaze coupled with the firm, mild, and flaky fish was endorsed whole-heartedly by even the non-seafood lover at the table. From a long list of desserts we finally settled on the blueberry cobbler, served warm and with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and the nutella panini. Our waitress apologized in advance because it was her first day, but she needn't have bothered. The service—like the food—was spot-on.

Do donut holes count, too?

The first Friday of June (the 6th, this year) is National Donut Day. The Chicago Salvation Army established the holiday in 1938 as an homage to the volunteers who served thousands of donuts to homesick soldiers in France during World War I.

Tweet, Tweet

Tastecasting, a food marketing company that uses social networking to promote local restaurants, has established a "team captain" in Indianapolis. Already in 12 cities, Tastecasting allows foodies—known as TasteCasters—to attend free restaurant tastings and give real-time feedback on Facebook, blogs, Twitter, and You Tube. Those interested in wielding their social media influence for the good of the Indy restaurant scene can email info@trendyminds.com for more information.

No Wonder He Drives So Fast

Dan Wheldon, winner of the 2005 Indy 500, was spotted racing into the Starbucks on the Circle at 10:59 p.m. last week, just moments before closing. "Can I use your restroom, mate?" the Brit asked the barista. Seemingly unaware of the uncomfortable patron's celebrity, the barista simply nodded toward the restroom door and handed Wheldon the key.

Blanket-priced wines

Each week beginning May 18, Oceanaire Seafood Room (30 S. Meridian St., 955-2277) will offer one white and one red wine for $20.10 per bottle (in anticipation of the year 2010). Right now, nab the McManus Cabernet Sauvignon or the Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc; next week try Beringer's Founders Estate Culinary Collection Chardonnay. Wade Wiestling, spokesperson for the Oceanaire, says that the wines in the promotion would normally sell for $27 to $46 per bottle. Another restaurant to take pricing out of the equation on its wine list? Siam Square (936 Virginia Ave., 636-8424) which lists 15 wines for $19.95 per bottle.

Nice-Priced Slice?

Many were disappointed when Neon Johnny's closed late last year, though none as much as IM's publisher Keith Phillips, who made the Saturday night 1/2-price pizza deal and $6.50 pitcher of beer a weekly ritual. Let us in on your best Saturday night pizza deal, and help Keith find a new favorite.

Sweet Talk

A recent visit to Chicago's The Publican—an upscale house of meat that lists the origins on its farm-fresh ingredients on the menu—left us disheartened, since neighboring Indiana didn't make an appearance on the list. But fate intervened the very next week when Tim Burton of Burton's Maplewood Farm in Medora, Ind., informed us that Publican chef Paul Kahan purchased several gallons of Burton's syrup just days ago, and will be listing the sweet stuff on his menu this summer.

The Guiding Bite

May 30—Traders Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville) will host Free Cone Day from 1 p.m.–5 p.m. to promote its artisan ice cream, Cream Line. Enjoy hayrides, a farm animal petting area, and farm tours at 2 p.m., 3 p.m., and 4 p.m.

June 11—The Circle City Socialites, a local roller derby squad, will host a cookbook launch party at the Marvis Arts & Events Center (121 S. East St., 917-9999) from 5–8 p.m. Swing by to sample food from the recipes in the cookbook and a signature cocktail. Admission is free. Pre-order your cookbook by clicking here.

June 20—Gelato Da Vinci (14390 Clay Terrace Blvd.) will host a Daddy and Me breakfast tea at 10 a.m. Tickets are $24.95 for two people; each additional child add $5. Call 816-9100 for reservations.

June 27—Check out the Buy Fresh Local Farm Tour, sponsored by the Hancock Harvest Council, from 11 a.m.–4 p.m. The self-guided driving tour will take participants through Piney Acres, Tuttle Orchards, Engleking's Country Beef Shop, and Vaughan Buffalo Farm. Each stop will represent several more local farms, and host family games and activities like a horse-drawn carriage ride and sheep-shearing demonstrations. Get directions here or call 462-1113.

Appetizer

A favorite Cincinnati ice cream has invaded Indianapolis grocery stores, and is giving Haagen Dazs a run for its money. Graeter's Ice Cream, weighing in at a pound per pint, is flying out of grocery store freezers. Where, you ask? Check out the June issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands May 28th, to find out, plus 75 dishes to drool over, dream about, and crave, and the gas station eatery that has us filling up again and again.

Succotash

His Place Eatery (3709 N. Shadeland Ave., 545-4890), serving Southern soul food, opened...Zarahako's Ice Cream Parlor (329 Washington St., Columbus, 812-378-1900), a Columbus, Ind. institution since 1900, will reopen its doors on June 6 after a full renovation...Za, a new Broad Ripple pizza joint, is slated to open at 801 Broad Ripple Ave. the first or second week of June...Gourmet Frank's (916 Westfield Blvd., 252-5788), serving, well, gourmet franks, opened last weekend, and Zoe's Yogurt Village, is slated to open May 29th. They share an owner (Victoria Burch) and a prep kitchen, but are two separate establishments...Lucia's closed for business in City Market, but their delicious cannoli can still be purchased at Creation Café and Euphoria in Buggs Temple (337 W. 11th St., 955-2389)...Hoghead's BBQ (6220 Cornell Ave.) closed...Naisa (1025 Virginia Ave., 602-3708), offering Pan-Asian cuisine in Fountain Square, opened its doors.

There are five elements: earth, air, fire, water
and garlic.
—Chef Louis Diat (1885-1957)

The Dish: 4.28.09

Julia Spalding — 2009-04-28T14:54:00Z

The Dish

4.28.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Friday We Ate At...

Meridian (5694 N. Meridian St., 466-1111), where our only complaint was that there was no outdoor seating on such a glorious evening. We reveled in starters including the creamy shrimp and grits—a savory bed of stick-to-your-ribs grits topped with plump shrimp and tomato and tasso gravy—and the remarkable smoked-corn puree—whose rich, basil-laced flavors stayed on our minds all weekend. The halibut we'd planned to order is temporarily off the menu, but the chef's featured Ivory King salmon was a pleasant discovery. The rare, pale fish is no different species-wise than a regular salmon, though everyone at our table found the flavor to be much more delicate and "not too salmon-y." The table was also unanimous in its approval of the Cajun jambalaya pasta, though we learned that asking the chef to "kick it up a little" without first tasting the dish is probably unwise—most of our group found it a little too fiery. Though the server's description of the featured pineapple upside-down cake dessert elicited eager oohs and aahs, the dish failed to satisfy nearly as much as the simple housemade butterscotch pudding. We're looking forward to a return visit, hoping for halibut and a table outside.

Beer Me

Mention Fat Tire Amber Ale at a crowded bar, and the likelihood of finding a fan with fond memories of sipping the Fort Collins, Colo.-brewed beer while gazing at the Rockies is high. Fat Tire, brewed by New Belgium Brewery, was until recently available only west of the Mississippi River, but last week Monarch Beverage announced that Fat Tire, recognizable by its distinctive 22-ounce bottle, will be distributed to bars in the Hoosier state, along with Mothership Wit Organic Wheat, and 1554 Enlightened Black Ale.

Did you know...

...that diners at Illinois Street Food Emporium (5550 N. Illinois St., 253-9513) whose order number ends in 56 receive a free slice of cake or a pastry? Neither did we. The nod to the eatery's location at 56th and Illinois was a pleasant surprise during a recent harried lunch stop when our turkey sandwich on a croissant with a side of cole slaw was order number 156. We took a slice of German chocolate cake. Delish.

Be Green and Save Green

Green Savings Indy, a coupon book for eco-friendly products and services is now available at area farmers' markets, or by clicking here. $15 will get you more than $800 in savings, including $5 off at Good Earth and Whole Foods, 15 percent off your purchase at Goose the Market, and 50 percent off your first Farm Fresh Delivery order, in addition to other deals on Earth-friendly goods and services.

Legalese

In case you were considering adopting your favorite snack food as a moniker, we advise against it. Click here for more.

In other 'suit news, while locally headquartered Steak N Shake saw an increase in both traffic and earnings the second quarter of 2009, Burger King Corp rained on their parade when the maker of the Whopper filed a lawsuit in March claiming that Steak N Shake's new Steakburger Shots infringes upon trademarked Burger King names like BK Burger Shots. Click here for the full story from the IBJ.

Ole!

As a nod to Cinco de Mayo, (not a Mexican Independence Day, as many believe, but rather a celebration of an important victory over the French army in 1862), Vine and Table Gourmet Market (313 E. Carmel Dr., 817-9473) will offer a complimentary tasting of Dos Banderos Sangritas, May 2nd from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. This version of sangrita, a popular Mexican thirst-quencher, was developed by Indy natives Ron Taisch and Jim Nagy. The tomato-juice—based beverage is meant to be sipped alternately with tequila, and will be paired with Casa Noble tequila for the tasting.

But there's more to traditional Cinco de Mayo fare than tequila. (Yes, we were shocked, too.) Adobo Grill (110 E. Washington St., 822-9990) will host a cooking class on May 2nd at 1 p.m., during which participants will learn how to make the requisite margaritas and guacamole, plus tilapia ceviche, chicken taquitos, and sopes de chorizo. Click here to make your reservation.

The Guiding Bite:

Mother May I...
...be among the first to check out offerings from Sodexo, the IMA's new food service provider? Yes, you may, if you attend Mother's Day Brunch at the Indianapolis Museum of Art in the Deer Zink Pavilion (4000 N Michigan Rd., 923-1331). Brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Adults, $32; children 4 to 12, $16; children younger than 4 are served free. Reservations strongly recommended.

Freebie!
Stop by Trader's Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., 733-1700) on May 30th between 1 p.m. and 5 p.m. for a free ice cream cone to celebrate the launch of their Creamline Organic Ice Cream.

Mmm...donuts
Feed a stereotype and get a coupon for a free donut from Dunkin' Donuts. On May 1st, police officers will stake out the roofs of participating locations and collect donations for Special Olympics Indiana. Everyone who makes donation at a "Cop On A Rooftop" location will receive a coupon for a free donut, and donations of $10 or more will also get a coupon for a free medium coffee.

Master of Their Domaine
The folks at 21st Amendment and Oh Yumm! Bistro (5615 N. Illinois St., 251-5656) will host an evening of food and wine May 2nd, with Jean-Claude Bouche of Domaine du Vieux Chene. The six-course meal will include edamame cake with Ahi tuna carpaccio and wasabi aioli, crostini of sautéed black trumpets and oysters with crimini mushrooms and brie, and lamb kebab with peppers and Vidalia onions. Each course will be paired with wine selected by Bouche. Dinner begins at 7:30, and tickets are $50.

Signs of the Times
Every Monday through Thursday through July 30th, couples dine for just $69 at Peterson's (7690 E. 96th St., 598-8863) with their Recession Busters menu. Choose from a limited selection of salads, sides, desserts, and entrees including a 6-ounce filet, 8-ounce chicken breast, or the Chef's catch of the day.

West Side Glory
Hey Westsiders! A new farmers' market, headed by Erin Jones-Edds of Country Mouse City Mouse will take place every Thursday evening from 4 p.m.—8 p.m. beginning May 7th at Chateau Thomas Winery (6291 Cambridge Way, Plainfield, 837-9463). Look for local/organic vendors like Zen Sheep Farm, Trader's Point Creamery, Willowfield Lavender, and Rene's Bakery; ready-to-serve eats from Feast in Bloomington; and gourmet pizza and wines from Chateau Thomas. Jones-Edds said she is working to arrange a monthly guest chef dinner featuring local chefs involved in the slow food movement. First up will be Chef Thom England of Ivy Tech's culinary program, date TDB.

Good News/Bad News

Indy foodies lost another haven—though perhaps only temporarily—for fine dining last week when Elements (415 N. Alabama St., ) suspended operations. Calls to the restaurant have gone unanswered, but owner Dennis Dunn told the Indianapolis Star that he will try to come up with ways to reopen his doors in the coming months. Other restaurants that have served their last diner include Artists Vineyard (68 N. 9th St., Noblesville, 219-3481), Bistro de Paris (9 W. Main St., Carmel, 844-7270), Salvatore's Ristorante (1268 W. 86th St., 844-9144), and Brick Street Inn/Lobby Lounge (175 S. Main St., Zionsville, 873-9177). And while you can still get a mean Cuban sandwich at Northside News (5406 N. College Ave., 254-8110) no longer can you snag an obscure indie mag to flip through while you eat. The café's magazine distributor went out of business.

But it isn't all bleak. Michigan-based Grand Traverse Pie Company has barely opened the doors to it's first Indy location (1155 E. Stop 11 Rd., Greenwood), and is already planning a second location to open later this summer on 9310 Michigan Rd. Cobb's Cajun Cookin' (7750 S. Meridian St., 859-0669) is now open for business, and we're willing to bet it is the only place in town to eat alligator. Swing by their booth at the Broad Ripple Art Fair May 16th and 17th for a bite.

Spotted: Neal Brown

The elusive chef of the late L'Explorateur has kept a low profile since his restaurant closed in January, but he has popped up around town looking for a location for his next restaurant (rumor has it he is going to give Broad Ripple another go), and spent some time in the kitchen at Alice Waters's famed Chez Panisse. He has most recently left his mark at Midtown Grill (815 E. Westfield Blvd., 253-1141) which launched a new menu last Friday night with consultation from Brown.

Appetizers

Louisville-based Z's Oyster Bar & Steakhouse (6220 Castleway Dr., 644-8000) stocks 26 different kinds of bourbon, but rarely makes a mint julep, due to its sweet, cloying flavor. Find out who makes a milder version of the classic Kentucky Derby drink, plus get a look inside the northside's trendy new brunch and lunch spot, and rediscover a Broad Ripple gem in the May issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands April 30th.

Succotash:

Nia's Deli (38 E. Washington St.), a convenience store with bottled drinks, snacks, and toiletries opened...HotShotz (4705 E. 96th St., 818-9510) is now called 97th Landing. Same owner/chef (Robert Winckler), different menu (hand-cut steaks and seafood)...St. Elmo Steakhouse (127 S. Illinois St., 635-0636) chef Dave Foegely unveiled a new bar menu, including house-cured smoked salmon and grilled barbeque shrimp wrapped in bacon. The new nibbles are only $4.95 and $5.95 each.

The Dish: 3.24.09

Julia Spalding — 2009-04-28T14:54:00Z

The Dish

3.24.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Friday We Ate At...

R Bistro (888 Massachusetts Ave., 423-0312). The sunny dining room at Regina Mehallick's Mass Ave restaurant was pleasantly bustling on Friday, and almost every seat was filled by young couples sharing the Bailey's pudding parfait with oatmeal-walnut crunch, friends telling stories over a bottle of wine, and families splurging on Irish-themed fare. In honor of St. Patty's Day, the ever-changing menu featured corned beef hash with poached eggs, roast leg of lamb with roasted potatoes and fresh mint sauce, and traditional Irish salad with cream dressing.

Sweet Deception

A children's birthday party brought us to Sugar Buzz (254 1st Ave., Carmel, 250-3452) last Saturday afternoon. Amongst the endless string of candies and ice cream sundae toppings were moist, puffy, delectable yellow and chocolate cupcakes, buried underneath pillows of thick icing. "Where did you get these delicious cupcakes?" we asked, expecting perhaps yet another shout-out to The Flying Cupcake or Sweet Lucinda's. "Kroger," the Sugar Buzz employee said cheerfully. Go figure.

Happy Birthday!

Peterson's (7690 E. 96th St., 598-8863) celebrates 10 years in the biz this month, and we are all invited to the party. Monday, March 30 from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., all patrons will receive 20 percent off all food and a complimentary dessert. Keep your eyes peeled for guests of honor Governor and Mrs. Mitch Daniels.

Appetizer

Taste of Tango (36 E. Washington St., 636-1122), a new Argentine steakhouse downtown, may have an international menu, but their grass-fed beef comes from Southern Indiana, and we like it. For the full review, pick up the April issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands March 26th.

It's No In-N-Out Burger,
But We'll Take It

The IBJ's Property Lines reports that Jack In The Box has its sights set on the Hoosier state. Click here for more details.

Changes are afoot...

At Binkley's Kitchen and Bar (5209 N. College Ave., 722-8888). The Broad Ripple eatery has welcomed a new chef (Aaron Cook, formerly of Capital Grille), a new bar manager/wine director (Rob Diaz, fresh from BIN 36 in Chicago), and together they have overhauled the wine list and assembled a posh tasting menu for the last weekend in March, featuring pan-seared diver scallops over artichoke risotto and whole roasted Cornish game hen stuffed with chorizo and finished with a mustard glaze. No more Kendall Jackson for these two.

"Heavenly Confections"

From Robert Weinstock's delightful book of food poetry, Food Hates You, Too, and Other Poems published by Hyperion Books, a division of Harper Collins Publishing. Click here to find the book on Amazon.com.

Puck's Last Stand

Puck's at The Indianapolis Museum of Art will serve its last dish April 25. The IMA announced earlier this month that Sodexo Inc., which already serves several clients in the Indianapolis area, including the Children's Museum, DePauw University, and several hospitals, will be the food service provider for its onsite restaurant, and preferred caterer (along with Kahn's Catering) for museum events. The future of dining at the museum is still hazy, but preliminary plans involve consolidating the museum's café and restaurant and offering lower-priced, on-the-go items with an emphasis on local and organic ingredients.

Patachou, You Tease

The doors to Petite Chou's new digs in Clay Terrace (14390 Clay Terrace Blvd., Carmel, 566-0765) were originally scheduled to open in mid-February, but it was March 12 before it finally opened for business. Now we've been lured in with the promise of dinner service, but we'll have to cool our heels until April 18 for the house of Patachou's take on the evening meal.

Don't Miss...

The premier of "Beer Wars Live with Ben Stein" on April 16. Watch the insiders' look at the brewing industry at several Indy-area theatres including AMC Castleton Square 14 and the Indianapolis Showplace with IMAX. Click here for a complete list of participating theaters and to buy tickets.

The "Craft Beer" dinner at Zing! (543 Indiana Ave., 636-7775) on April 26 at 6 p.m., a seven-course, small-plate dinner accompanied by local, craft beers. $40 per person. Seating is limited; call for reservations.

The Price Fixe menu at Eddie Merlot's (3645 E. 96th St., 846-8303), through April 30. Some menu highlights include coconut shrimp appetizer, mini crabcake sliders, braised beef short ribs, cedar plank salmon, and key lime creme brulee. $32.95 per person.

Succotash

Pita Pit opened downtown at 1 N. Pennsylvania St....The Greenwood coffee shop Beanzies closed Feb. 28...Olive Garden in Noblesville (13285 Tegler Dr.,) 770-6091 opened for business at dinner yesterday; lunch service begins today...Jim Henderson opened Fireside Grill (11705 Fox Rd., 823-1000) in Geist at Fox and Oaklandon Roads with the help of former Binkley's chef Jeff Kleindorffer...Famous Jack's Burgers in the Precedent office complex on 96th street closed...The Oceanaire Seafood Room (30 Meridian St., 955-2277) has hired a new sous chef. The downtown seafood favorite is keeping the identity on ice while this individual undergoes training.

The Dish - 02.10.09

51004531 — 2009-02-09T14:54:00Z

Table for Two

Really? You still don't have Valentine's Day plans? Down economy be damned, an open table will be tough to find this weekend. But a few area restaurants have planned special menus to celebrate this most romantic of days.

14 West (14 W. Maryland St., 636-1414): Call it classic or call it cliché. Diners at 14 West will receive a complimentary Champagne toast and a single long-stem red rose while being serenaded by live music.

Adobo Grill (110 E. Washington St., 822-9990): Have dinner and a movie in one fell swoop. Catch a screening of Like Water for Chocolate, a Mexican romance, with themed menu items like Adobo-rubbed flavored popcorn, and red velvet "wedding" cake inspired by a scene in the movie. $22.99 per person. Movie starts at 4:30, and dinner will be served concurrently.

Binkley's (5902 N. College Ave, 722-8888): Score a four-course meal for $35 a person, and $5 off all bottles of wine or Champagne.

Chancellor's (850 W. Michigan St., 231-5221): Enjoy a three-course meal with a special "lovers' dessert" for $60 per couple.

Cobblestone Grill (160 S. Main St., Zionsville, 873-4745): On both Friday and Saturday night, take advantage of the three-course, surf-and-turf meal for $59.95 per couple, as well as special pricing on select bottles of wine.

Euphoria (337 W. 11th St., 955-2389): Order from a special $50 menu, including chocolate fondue built for two, and "Love Letters," a new Brad Gates creation featuring two kinds of mushrooms, sauteed and slipped inside housemade pasta envelopes.

Kona Grill (14395 Clay Terrace Blvd., 566-1400): Snag a free dessert with the purchase of any entrée.

Morton's The Steakhouse (41 E. Washington St., 229-4700): At this downtown steakhouse, $99.99 will get couples a choice of Caesar or Morton's salad, two single-cut filets, their choice of three seafood dishes, a vegetable side dish, and either the signature Hot Chocolate Cake or a slice of key lime pie.

Scholar's Inn (725 Massachusetts Ave., 536-0707): Chef Jake Brenchley has created a $65 menu which includes four appetizer options, five soups and salads, eight entrees, and four desserts; many of these items are not on the regular menu. Call for details.

Sullivan's (3316 E. 86th St., 580-1280): A special Valentine's Day menu, with the steakhouse regulars, and a few new items like roasted chicken breast, asparagus bisque, and chocolate-covered strawberries (ooh la la)—thrown in.

Weber Grill (10 N. Illinois St., 636-7600): Nothing says romance like, umm, barbeque. Check out a specially selected menu with choices like smoked tomato basil soup, a grilled Black Angus filet, and mixed-berry cobbler for $29.95 per person.

The Dish - 01.27.09

Beth Clayton — 2009-02-02T14:54:00Z

Frosty Belgians, the best $20 lunch in town, and an edible inauguration momento...

Quick Bites

Brugge Brasserie (1011 E. Westfield Blvd., 255-0978) has more tables on which to set their pommes frites and famous Tripel de Ripel brew. The upstairs, formerly occupied by Netheads, is now open. The menu offerings are the same upstairs, but the addition of a tabletop shuffle board game and brighter lighting contrast with the gastropub's cozy lower level. Be forewarned; a pair of revelers enjoying an after-dinner drink upstairs were booted from their table to the bar seating in favor of a group of diners who ordered off the food menu.

Signs of the Times
Everybody's feeling the financial squeeze. Here, in descending order of glamour, Indy eateries helping you stretch your downtrodden dollar a little further.

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse

SI/Scholar's Inn

Dunkin Donuts

HURRY!
Only four more days to take advantage of Devour Downtown Winterfest's $30-a-person menus. Click here for a complete list of participating restaurants.

Have your pres and eat him, too
In honor of this month's historic inauguration, Whimsical Whisk (730-6802) will be whipping up Barack Obama cookies with an edible gilded frame through the end of February.

On Friday We Ate At...

Palomino (49 W. Maryland St., 974-0400), and took advantage of the Devour Downtown $20 lunch menu. Patrons choose one of three appetizers (Caesar salad, white bean hummus, or portabella mushroom soup), one of three entrees (grilled maple chicken salad, red king crab sandwich, or rigatoni Bolognese) and either chocolate tiramisu or crème brulee for dessert. After eating enough to feed a small army, we waddled back to the office with two wishes: that the chop-chop salad had been on the list instead of the Caesar, and that the white bean hummus—a smooth mixture with a Southwestern tang—finds its way to the permanent menu.

Appetizer

While we were working on the February cover story of IM—The Food Network—Chris Eley of Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 924-4944) let us in on a secret: he is in the process of acquiring Camelbert, an Arabian camembert made from camel's milk for his Fall Creek Place market. "We don't have clearance yet [to carry it in the United States] but hopefully soon!" said Eley. The issue, a complete guide to the best groceries and markets Indy has to offer, hits newsstands January 29th.

Succotash

Scotty's Brewhouse Downtown (1 Virginia Ave., 571-0808) opened for business, as did Arni's in Greenwood (1691 W. Curry Rd., 881-0500) and Taste of Tango (36 E. Washington St., 636-1122), an old-school Argentine steak house complete with fedora-topped waitstaff...Martha Hoover's latest progeny, Petite Chou at Clay Terrace is scheduled to open mid- to late-February, and Bu Da Bar (429 Massachusetts Ave.,) an Asian-inspired cigar and martini bar will serve it's first cocktail President's Day weekend...Scholar's Inn Bakehouse, which has been serving coffee and baked goods on the corner of College and Broad Ripple avenues since 2004 closed this month after not renewing its lease. Its products will still be available at Whole Foods, O'Malia's markets, and others...Swing by IHOP on February 24—Pancake Day, also known as Fat Tuesday—for a free short stack; all that's asked in return is a donation to the Children's Miracle Network...California-based fro-yo chain Red Mango has filed to open up shop along the Broad Ripple strip between Union Jack's Pub and Brother's Bar and Grill...Chef Ron Harris of Locally Grown Gardens (1050 E. 54th St., 255-8555) launched Pink Pie Bakery, a line of, well, pies, at the greengrocer's SoBro location. Homemade ice cream, made with free-range brown eggs, fresh milk, and Indiana strawberries, among other ingredients, is also in the works.

The Guiding Bite

A select calendar of food-and-drink events you should know about.

Monday, February 2
Urban gardeners and local foodies should stop by the Groundhog Day Urban Farming Forum at the Keep Indianapolis Beautiful, Inc. headquarters for gardening tips and secrets for more sustainable living and eating. 5:30 p.m. Free.1031 Fletcher Ave., slowfoodindy.com

Tuesday, February 17
Patrick’s Kitchen and Drinks will serve up three appetizers, two entrees, and a dessert, each paired with one of six beers from Indiana microbreweries. 6:30 p.m., $35 in advance, $45 at the door. 47 Boone Village, Zionsville, 733-8755.

Friday, February 13, and Saturday, February 14
A2Z Cafe has created a special three-course menu for Valentine’s Day, featuring appetizers to share and tasty entrees like roasted prime rib or Malaysian shrimp, for $65 per couple. 4705 E. 96th St., 569-9349. For those who haven't finalized their Valentine's Day plans (tick tock!), watch for a complete list dining events and special menus in a special edition of The Dish.

Let Us Pray

Julia Spalding — 2008-10-13T14:54:00Z

Kudos to the Sunday brunch staff at Pikk’s Tavern for jumping into action this weekend when an uninvited guest kamikazed from a nearby tree into a delicious plate of chilaquiles served on the eatery’s wooded outdoor patio. And by “uninvited guest,” we mean the queen of all praying mantises, a beast nearly as long as a toothbrush. “Wow … I’ve never seen one that big,” our server commented as he calmed our screams, gently escorted the insect the premises, and replaced the dish within minutes with another one as savory and ample as the original. Thank goodness it didn’t land on the crab cake eggs Benedict or prime rib hash. 4939 E. 82^nd St., 915-9990. — Julia Spalding

It’s the Little Zings

Julia Spalding — 2008-10-13T14:54:00Z

Hooray for Zing’s delicious $3 mojito with a sweet hint of guava. We didn’t love the beans and sausage in a French-Caribbean fusion cassoulet, but the chicken thighs were delicious, as were chorizo stuffed dates wrapped in bacon, wonderfully delicate Asian meatballs, and delicate curried turkey burgers. 543 Indiana Ave., 636-7775 —Terry Kirts

Creole, Creole World

Julia Spalding — 2008-09-08T14:54:00Z

Although new downtown franchise J. Gumbo’s hails from Kentucky, it features original Cajun recipes from founder Billy Fox Jr.’s grandmother, a Louisiana native. Creole, gumbo, jambalaya, and etouffee, scooped onto white rice and accompanied by garlic bread, star here in the old BadaBoomz Ale House & Grill digs. The interior remains very similar to that of the slick previous eatery with the addition of a few bayou-inspired die cuts. The menu is divided into categories of spiciness—sweet & mild, medium zesty, and hot & spicy—appealing to tame taste buds and fire-breathers alike. Lunch specials feature $5 bowls of down-home favorites with staples like sweet onions, bell peppers, red beans, sausage, shrimp, and plenty of jalapenos guaranteed. Take that, Gustav. 15 Maryland Street, 522-2666, jgumbos.com — Carrie Boyd

Top Pikk

Julia Spalding — 2008-08-25T14:54:00Z

During a stop at Adobo Grill (4939 E. 82nd St., 915-9990) for one last meal at the northside location before it packs up its guacamole carts and migrates downtown, we noticed that management had already set out menus for the new Pikk’s Tavern that will go in the spot late this year. Duck-sausage corn dogs sound promising, as do mussels with red curry and coconut milk, steak tartare (though they spell it wrong on the menu, sigh), and a muffuletta. Looks like we can expect East-meets-Tuscany-meets-New Orleans-meets-pub grub from Adobo’s daVinci Group sibling. – Terry Kirts

Tchop Tchop

Julia Spalding — 2008-08-21T14:54:00Z

Dave Lee, the omnipresent owner of Broad Ripple’s Naked Tchopstix (6253 N. College Ave., 252-5555), has caught the franchise bug. Plans are in the works for a restaurant in downtown Chicago, and three more Indy spots—a satellite at 96^th Street and Keystone Avenue, set to open this month; a location at the new airport terminal; and a 7,500-square foot restaurant in Hamilton Town Center. South Korean-born Lee hopes to maintain the lounge-y vibe of his popular Broad Ripple restaurant as the company expands. -- Catherine Fata

Something Cold, Something New

Julia Spalding — 2008-08-18T14:54:00Z

The re-opening of Glendale Town Center has brought some much-needed attention to the area, and Squeeze Fresh Smoothies (6155 N. Keystone Ave., 259-9200) deserves some of the credit. Owners Eric and Darlene Phillips opened the colorful fro-yo spot in April after discovering their love for the Colorado-based franchise’s product, rounding out only 12 shops in the country. “Squeeze is also very community-based,” says Eric. “I buy a lot of local product.” A note to those new to the fro-yo movement: The treat actually tastes like frozen yogurt, not soft-serve ice cream, and the stuff is healthy and delicious. Try a dollop of green tea yogurt with some fresh mango mixed in. Or, for $4.85, we suggest the generous, Original-sized Strawberry Hill smoothie (strawberry juice, strawberries, bananas, and frozen yogurt). Supplements such as calcium, whey protein, fiber, and energy boosters can be blended into any one of the vibrantly colored smoothies for an added kick. – Anne D. Purcell

All’s Fair

Julia Spalding — 2008-08-11T14:54:00Z

A trip to the Indiana State Fair to try out Urick Concessions’ deep-fried bananas Foster cheesecake on a stick (voted the fair’s signature food of 2008) brought mixed reviews. Some of us had expected real bananas (or at least more banana flavor) from what turned out to be small squares of pre-made cheesecake that were battered, fried, skewered, and served with a swirl of soft-serve ice cream nearly three times the size of the cheesecake. More unanimously satisfying was the second-place finisher, a smoked pulled-pork barbecue sandwich offered by Barto's Catering & Concessions. Slathered in barbecue sauce with Brown County's own shagbark hickory syrup, a mound of utterly tender slices—not shreds—of pork made fair dining seem almost elegant. Lamb burgers, UFO-sized tenderloins, and duck brats also delighted us. How about you? – Terry Kirts

Little Sushi Sunshine

Julia Spalding — 2008-08-11T14:54:00Z

Tatami rooms with privacy curtains have been installed along one side of the dining room, and plenty of red lampshades and gauzy fabric panels have been hung to distinguish Oishi Sushi & Grill (6929 E. 10th St., 356-8880) from its former life as a Ponderosa. Though there’s not much to set this Irvington sushi spot apart from the all the other fledglings going in around town. (See also: Miyagi and Tegry Bistro’s new Traders Point location.) From the list of Oishi’s special rolls, we chose the tomaru maki, which paired tempura eel and shrimp in a surprisingly light sweet potato coating with spicy mayonnaise and fish roe. By contrast, a spicy scallop roll was a tad soft in texture, though the flavors were pure and fresh. Tuna tataki was nicely seared with a crust of black sesame seeds and a nest of daikon threads. A big crunchy tempura soft-shell crab, perhaps the highlight of the evening, came with a tasty, sweet-and-sour ponzu sauce. Beef negimaki, on the other hand, didn't have the kind of char-grilled edges we had hoped for, but the bite of green onions inside and a judicious drizzle of teriyaki made this another dish we’ll probably revisit next time we stop in. – Terry Kirts

Sandra Day

Julia Spalding — 2008-08-11T14:54:00Z

More evidence that Sandra Rice & Noodles (10625 Pendleton Pike, 823-8323) is leading the way in creating some of Indy's most authentic Vietnamese and Southeast Asian specialties came in a special preview of the new menu on Sunday. Regulars got a chance to taste some one-time specials that had been perfected, as well as completely new dishes soon to appear on the revised menu. Not to be missed are delicious tuna rolls, crispy egg roll skins wrapped around marinated tuna, as well as a refreshing warm tuna salad with a kicky chili oil dressing and sliced cucumbers. Mussels in a lemongrass and ginger-spiked broth; an especially delicate soup of rice noodles, tomatoes, crab, and pork; and beef wrapped in bacon are additional highlights among the new starters. Entrees include a hearty Vietnamese beef stew, big meaty prawns with a chili sauce, and an unexpected pork loin caramelized in sugar, cooked in coconut soda and fish sauce, and spiked with whole boiled eggs. – Terry Kirts

Dot Dot Dot

Julia Spalding — 2008-08-04T14:54:00Z

Dippin’ Dots—those tiny BBs of ice cream sold by the scoop at snack bars and shopping mall kiosks—are still the most scientifically perfect summertime food around, as far as we’re concerned. We gained even more appreciation for DD’s classic Banana Split combo (chocolate, strawberry, vanilla, and banana pellets jumbled together) after sampling Connecticut-based MiniMelts’ copycat version at Brownsburg’s charming Bulldog Ice Cream & Sub Shop (521 E. Main St., 858-3385) over the weekend. Our cup held a mishmash of shapes and sizes—not the tidy orbs that make Dippin’ Dots so fun to eat. In fact, one spoonful of MiniMelts presented a pencil eraser-sized nib of ice cream that was part chocolate and part banana, with a miniscule core of strawberry, making it more like the Turducken of cryogenically frozen ice creams than the OCD treat we have grown to love. – Julia Spalding

Still Fresh

Julia Spalding — 2008-07-21T14:54:00Z

Gone are Grandma’s potato salad, Can’t Stop pickles, and colorful hand-drawn signs offerings special prices when you buy three items. But while fans and former customers of the old Atlas Supermarket are bound to feel a twinge of nostalgia going into the newly opened Fresh Market (5415 N. College Ave., 259-9270), they probably won’t miss the cramped aisles or the logjam at the deli. The long-awaited gourmet emporium is clearly a hit. Parking, even on the rooftop deck, can still be a bit hard to come by. That comes as no surprise, given the variety of baked goods, prepared entrees, wines, cheeses, gourmet teas and coffees, and hard-to-find ingredients like rhubarb and celery root. Be sure to check out the wide selection of retro pops—everything from glass bottles of Mexican Coke to such blasts from the past as Moxie, Bubble Up, and Frosty’s root beer. —Terry Kirts

Fry, Fry and Fry Again

Julia Spalding — 2008-07-16T14:54:00Z

There is something about summer that, when we aren’t tending to our grills, makes us want to drop things into deep fryers. Think crinkle-cut fries and battered mushrooms at drive-ins, the iconic carnival corndog, and …

A recent stop at Shelby Street Diner (3623 Shelby St., 783-9590) had us in a particularly summery mood when we ordered a big plate of crispy fried okra alongside classic onion rings. We passed on the ranch dressing for the okra, and it held its own. Shelby Street’s plate-sized tenderloin is another epic treat—and the bun actually fits the Frisbee-sized cutlet.
Our inaugural summer visit to Mug ‘n’ Bun (5211 W. 10th St., 247-9186) for a frosty mug of its musky, not-too-sweet root beer revealed some new fried menu options. Their Buffalo Chips are lightly spiced chip-like fries, and the Tenderloin Dippers, little fried nuggets, are perfect for, well, dipping. (Skip the honey-mustard dressing and get the barbecue sauce or a side of mayo.)
The Indiana State Fair made news last year for banning trans fats from its vendors’ fryers, but you can bet there will still be plenty of fried delicacies to try out this August. In a recent poll to select the signature fair food for 2008, the contenders included a deep-fried maple latte, fried maple twists on sticks, and deep-fried bananas foster. We’ve only just heated up the (trans fat-free!) oil here. What are your favorite summertime fried items? And where do you go to get them? – Terry Kirts

Milking It

Julia Spalding — 2008-07-16T14:54:00Z

The August issue of Food & Wine includes the Fleur de la Terre aged cheese from Zionsville’s Traders Point Creamery (9101 Moore Road, 733-1700) in its Eco Checklist piece (15 Easy Ways to Live Better). Editor in Chief Dana Cowin also mentions the distinctive washed-rind cheese—made from the milk of hormone- and antibiotic-free, grass-fed cows—in her Editor’s Letter, calling it out as one of the “items we’d love even if they weren’t eco-friendly.” — Julia Spalding

Let's Take This Outside

Julia Spalding — 2008-07-14T14:54:00Z

Zionsville newcomer Noah Grant's (65 S. 1st St., 732-2233) boasts what may be the most charming alfresco dining in the suburb. Nestled behind the main drag, the eatery’s front porch—hung with white linens to shade the sun—overlooks a sleepy small-town street that belies the chic restaurant found inside. It may be the coolest addition to Zionsville since the Bentley dealership. — DSC

Mistaken Identity

Julia Spalding — 2008-07-07T14:54:00Z

Make no mistake, there is only one Maria’s Pizza, and right now you will find her at her new Fountain Square digs (1106 Prospect St., 786-9283). We (and, apparently, many other pizza diehards) assumed that the 50-year-old southside landmark’s former Shelby Street location still had the original goods. Can you blame us? Though the new occupants hung a new shingle, they kept “Maria’s” in the name and only switched one digit in the phone number. Fool us once, shame on us. Fool us twice…. Well, you know the rest.

Safari, So Good

Julia Spalding — 2008-07-07T14:54:00Z

We tried to have lunch at Donique African Restaurant (4150 Lafayette Road, 280-8009) at the old Tadkaa spot, where a new sign indicated that it is now serving Liberian food—but no one was even stirring inside, well after their posted lunch hours. So instead, we stopped off for a first course of pupusas, wonderful masa patties filled with beans, at the Salvadoran food counter at Saraga International Grocery (3605 Commercial Drive, 388-9999), and followed up with the always-reliable lunch buffet at Cairo Cafe (3047 Lafayette Road, 926-2233). Though only one waitress was on hand, and there was none of the delicious fava bean falafel on the buffet, the beef and chicken stews, koshary (lentils, pasta, and rice with caramelized onions), fava bean dip, and soothing om ali (bread pudding) were just the ticket—if from the other side of Africa than we had hoped to explore.

Oh Danny Boy

Julia Spalding — 2008-06-30T14:54:00Z

Indy burger chain Mr. Dan’s (4390 N. Keystone Ave., 377-1944) has its eyes on a new 16^th Street location. The spot, between downtown and Speedway, is still in the permit phase; Franchise owner Dick Hogshire says the Westside will have to wait another six months before the patties, dogs, and fries hit the neighborhood. (That’s plenty of time to get a refill on Lipitor.)

Coming Attraction

Julia Spalding — 2008-06-30T14:54:00Z

While strolling past Theatre on the Square (627 Massachusetts Ave., 685-8687) last week, we noticed a bright orange sign in the window, and we liked what it previewed. TOTS is applying for an alcoholic beverage license and will have its hearing on July 7^th. Booze and live theater: well played.

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